YOU GOTTA EAT HERE: Air Canada unveils top new restaurants for 2023

Kappa Sato

The 2023 Canada’s Best New Restaurants Top 10 have been unveiled by Air Canada, with Toronto restaurant Kappo Sato taking the coveted top spot. In it’s 22nd year, the list is the longest running and most respected Canadian restaurant ranking. More than 30 restaurants across the country were visited by a single anonymous reviewer in determining the rankings.

Led by chef Takeshi Sato, Kappo Soto is a Kappo-style Omakase restaurant where the tasting menu is prepared entirely in front of guests. In second place, the lavish steakhouse Wild Blue elevates fine dining in the mountain ski town of Whistler through its prime selection of meat and seafood. This year’s third-place winner, Marilena Café and Raw Bar, serves upscale seafood in a relaxed environment in Victoria on Vancouver Island.

“We are incredibly proud of Canada’s Best New Restaurants program, which for over 20 years has provided a platform to spotlight emerging culinary excellence across the country,” said Andy Shibata, VP, Brand at Air Canada. “Dining and travelling are important economic contributors within our communities, and part of our objectives every year is to help new businesses flourish and for our travellers to see the possibilities of where culinary experiences can take them.”

Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023 highlights the top restaurants that have opened across the country between late spring 2022 and May 31, 2023, and deliver exceptional experiences through the quality of their food, level of service and commitment to culinary creativity.

The Top 10 were selected by food critic and author of Canada’s Best New Cookbook, Amy Rosen, who returns to the program having been the program’s first anonymous writer from 2002-2003. Over the course of a secret month-long cross-Canada journey, Rosen dined anonymously at more than 30 establishments that were nominated by a panel of food industry experts.

Here is the complete list of Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023:

1. Kappo Sato (Toronto): Chef-owner Takeshi Sato, who worked at Tokyo’s Michelin-starred Ukai, conducts a two-and-a-half-hour kappo omakase in a tranquil room, where a tasting menu is prepared entirely in front of guests sitting comfortably wrapped around a smooth wooden counter.

2. Wild Blue (Whistler, BC): The luxurious steakhouse Wild Blue has elevated fine dining in the resort town Whistler. Highlights from Chefs Alex Chen and Derek Bendig include a tender pink ribeye, served with the ocean-deep umami of yakiniku sauce, and buttery pommes purées.

3. Marilena Café and Raw Bar (Victoria, BC): Chef Kristian Eligh and his team provide a new form of Vancouver Island hospitality that is upscale yet assertively unstuffy. Negroni’s on tap mix well with the Victoria restaurant’s seafood towers, plush pea agnolotti tzssed with truffle butter, and ceviche mixto with pomegranate seeds.

4. Rizzo’s House of Parm (Fort Erie, Ont.): Chef Matty Matheson’s hometown of Fort Erie is host to his newest restaurant. Hefty mozzarella sticks with a fresh marinara dipper are a must for the table before enjoying the name-sake saucy, cheesy, and broiled Parms, available in chicken, eggplant or veal.

5. Petit Socco (Winnipeg): The intimate restaurant has 10 seats, an open kitchen and only two employees; co-owners and life partners Adam Donnelly and Courtney Molaro. The four-course dinner includes tempura shishito peppers coated in house berbere- spiced mayo sprinkled with sesame seeds and a giant tostada for two piled high with chopped poached prawns, sushi-grade tuna, Salvadoran curtido and avocado crema.

6. Bonheur D’Occasion (Montreal): Chef-owner Philippe Gauthier creates one of the most generous meals of the year with a level of hospitality best described as kindness. One of the most beloved dishes is the mille feuille by pastry chef Victor Adnet made with phyllo dough, deeply caramelized with maple sugar and layered with gently whipped clover cream.

7. Folke (Vancouver): In the hands of co-owner and chef Colin Uyeda, Folke’s vegan food is for anyone who enjoys gorgeous, inventive and extremely delicious food that happens to be plant-based. Co-owner and pastry chef Pricilla Deo bakes a magnificent chocolate cake, layered with mousse, strawberry gelée, Earl Grey custard and fudge crunch.

8. Le Molière par Mousso (Montreal): Chefs Antonin Mousseau-Rivard, Daniel Vézina and Samuel Sauvé-Lamothe bring the classic brasserie to life in a soaring new Quartier Latin space. Stay for dessert and order the doré meunière that usually is pan-fried in browned butter with hazelnuts and lemon, but here, uplifted with siphon sauce.

9. Espace Old Mill (Stanbridge East, Que.): Jean-Martin Fortier’s inn and restaurant in Quebec’s Eastern Townships, provides visitors the most pleasant of countryside experiences. Guests will enjoy Chef Éric Gendron’s hand-chopped Legacy Speckle Park beef with sweet peppers and nasturtiums from just outside the window.

10. Darlings (Bloomfield, Ont.): Jesse Fader left Toronto for Prince Edward County, where he has opened this upscale pizza restaurant in Bloomfield. Dishes worth visiting include the fresh-made Stracciatella made by Fader, which is suggested as a dipping sauce, and slices of sugar pie served in crimson County cherries.

Starting in 2022, Air Canada has expanded the program to feature special mentions, which have been incorporated into this year’s program alongside the revered Top 10 list. The 2023 Special Mentions include Trailblazers of the Year, Dish of the Year, Dessert of the Year, Cocktail of the Year, Tableware of the Year, and Design of the Year.

The full list is featured in the November issue of Air Canada enRoute magazine and online at CanadasBestNewRestaurants.com.