POSTCARD FROM MEXICO:Where to Eat, Shop and Golf in COVID-careful Riviera Nayarit

We have been in the Riviera Nayarit area of Mexico since late December and this is my third “Postcard.” My intention is to share with TIT readers that this part of Mexico has been extremely diligent about following strict COVID protocols. This area on the Bay of Banderas, about half an hour drive north of Puerto Vallarta has been our winter home for the past 15 years. I am happy to report that we and the small bubble of people with whom we socialize have all been COVID-free.

The Riviera Nayarit CVB has endeavoured to reactivate its tourism industry by developing a Tourism Wellness and Best Practices Guide for all tourism partners in the destination. This guide outlines the elevated standards for sanitation and safety protocols delineated by established international health organizations and the world’s leading nations to reduce the risk of COVID-19 transmission. Riviera Nayarit obtained the Safe Travel stamp of approval from the World Travel and Tourism Council (WTTC) for aligning all hygiene protocols in establishments to their guidelines. For more information check HERE.

The following are places where I can attest that the management is following strict COVID protocols. This includes disinfecting of tables, chairs, shopping carts, golf carts after each use and taking each person’s temperature at the entrance. All staff wear masks at all times and visitors must wear them when entering and leaving the premises. We decided to patronize only outdoor restaurants. We also decided to avoid Puerto Vallarta because COVID-19 numbers there were high.

Restaurants

Karens Place on the beach in Bucerias is a long-time favourite of ours. Karen is an Australian surfer gal who came to Bucerias many years ago. Her restaurant is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The eggs Benedict are the best in town. On Sunday nights, they offer a carvery special that includes a starter, main course of either turkey, prime rib or roast pork with all the trimmings and dessert for about $17.
www.karensplacebucerias.com

Located in the Marival Residences in Nuevo Vallarta, Nick San serves fusion food that blends the best of Mexican and Japanese cuisines. The serve a wide variety of sashimi, variations on tuna and an outstanding cucumber/crab salad, plus many other temptations. Not only does the food taste good, but each dish is presented as a work of art.
www.nicksanmexico.com

At the top end of the Bay of Banderas, in stylish Punta de Mita, you’ll be spoiled by the choice of beachside eateries. At La Pescadora, service comes with a big smile (under the mask). Guacamole is prepared tableside with house-made totopo chips. Margaritas are also made at your table with fresh lime juice and your choice of tequila. Fish is bought daily from the local fishermen. I recommend the seabass prepared with garlic and guajillo chile sauce.

Colourful Sandrina’s is a Bucerias landmark. Run by Canadians Sandrina, Andres and family since 1901, the restaurant is in the back courtyard and the front is a boutique with all sorts of hand-chosen Mexican crafts. Cuisine is a combo of Greek, Mediterranean and Mexican flavours. Sandrina is also a talented artist who offers painting classes. This year she added cooking sessions.
www.sandrinas.com

Chef Lopez has named his newest restaurant, Loma 42, after the address of his original fine dining establishment in Tepic (capital of Nayarit State). Start your gastronomic experience with a creative cocktail from the Mixology menu. Pizza, pasta, pork belly tacos, ceviche, steaks grilled on a wood fire are all delicious. Save room for the bread pudding.
www.loma42.com

Tiny Café is literally a brightly painted hole in the wall at the corner of the Lateral and Calle Hidalgo. In Bucerias. Barista and owner, Juan, is a lovely guy and I think he makes the best lattes in town.

Just off the main street in La Cruz, Masala is a family-run upscale restaurant serving a great assortment of Mediterranean and Mexican dishes, such as sesame-crusted ahi tuna and honey/agave glazed duck magret. On Sunday nights you can bring your own wine. This year they opened a wine boutique so you can choose a bottle to enjoy in the restaurant or take it home.
www.masalarestaurante.com

Shopping

In La Cruz on Sundays from October to April, the marina area becomes a bustling organic farmers’ and handicraft market. It’s also the best place to buy fish fresh from the boats every day. A similar market is held every Tuesday around the marina in Nuevo Vallarta.

La Comer
Just outside of central Bucerias, there are two large supermarkets, Mega and La Comer. We prefer La Comer, partly because they serve wonderful cappuccino with flaky croissants in the coffee shop, but also because their selection of fresh produce, meats and deli items are excellent. Staff are very helpful.

Jennifer Mugford and her husband Mauricio offer shopping services at Costco in Puerto Vallarta. You can email your shopping list to them a few days in advance and schedule a date. They will shop and deliver for people living in Bucerias, Nuevo Vallarta or La Cruz for approximately $30. They send a photo of the Costco receipt so you can have the exact cash ready when they deliver. This service was especially handy during a period of time in February when the Costco and several other chain stores (Home Depot, Walmart) were closed to folks over 60 years of age. We never understood the logic behind this.

Call +52 3315203061 or email jenny_mc10@hotmail.com

Golf

Riviera Nayarit is arguably one of Mexico’s top golf destinations. Each of the courses I played this year disinfected carts after every use, supplied hand sanitizer and most offered a cart per person for those not comfortable with sharing. Only a few customers were allowed into the clubhouses at a time and masks were mandatory in public indoor areas.

The Punta Mita resort boasts two Jack Nicklaus Signature courses. In June 2008, Pacifico was named the number one golf course in the world by the readers of Condé Nast Traveler. Pacifico boasts19 fairways and the world’s only natural island green. The Jack Nicklaus Signature design takes full advantage of vistas of the surrounding Sierra Madre Mountains, white coral sand beaches and a tropical landscape of palms and bougainvillea.

Jack’s new Bahia Course may be less scenic but the severely contoured greens will challenge your putting acumen. The grand finale fairways 17 and 18 take golfers within steps of Punta Mita’s famed El Faro surfing beach.

These tracts are in such impeccable condition, you’d swear they trim the fairways with manicure scissors. And just when you’re feeling a bit parched, the waiter at the halfway house greets you with complimentary iced towels and mango smoothies. If only they could help me to hit that island green.

Note: The private Punta Mita Golf Club is open only to Punta Mita property owners and their guests, and guests of Four Seasons and St. Regis Resorts.

There’s been a shark siting on the Riviera Nayarit, between Sayulita and Punta Mita. Litibu, the newest of the Mexican government’s Fonatur projects (the first was Cancun), means “song of the birds” in the language of the local Huichol Indians. With luck you’ll be able to chirp about a few birdies on this spectacularly challenging tract that meanders over jungle, mountain and oceanside fairways.

Norman’s par-threes at Litibu are outstanding. Surf’s up on the fourth, a downhill poke to a postage stamp green with a gorgeous view of the point at the end of the Bay of Banderas called Punta Mita. Another memorable par-three is the eighth where you must plop your ball onto an almost-island green.

Further south, in Nuevo Vallarta, try to tame El Tigre. No, it’s not named after Tiger Woods, but for the larger-than-life rescued Bengal tigers in cages on the 17th. Robert von Hagge’s brutal bunkering, gorgeous sculpted fairways, an island green and brilliant three finishing holes makes you want to play El Tigre again and again.

Designed by Percy Clifford, Flamingos’ unique fairways have a bit of everything—from plenty of forced carries and elevation changes to resident crocodiles. Players can save on greens fees by purchasing a discount package of five or more rounds.

There’s been another shark siting at Vidanta Nuevo Vallarta. The Greg Norman Signature Golf Course meanders along the banks of the mighty Ameca River with vistas of the Sierra Madre Mountains from every fairway. Your round starts with a ride across the world’s largest golf cart suspension bridge spanning the Ameca River from Nayarit to Jalisco States.

Choose from four different tee options on this par-73 tract with impeccable conditioning and manicuring. You will also have the advantage of a forecaddie (mandatory) who offers target advice, rakes bunkers, repairs divots and helps you line up your putts. Mr. Norman designed his tract as a resort-friendly course that achieves that fine balance between challenge and enjoyment. His generous fairways getter tighter and trickier nearer the greens, often protected, in typical Norman style, by cavernous bunkers. Along the way, you will spot lovely birds, iguanas and maybe a croc or two.

The immense Vidanta resort also offers the 18-hole Nayar course and Lakes, a ten-hole, par-three executive course with night lighting.