02 JAN 2019: Welcome to Scottsdale, a cosmopolitan mini-metropolis with Wild West roots and one of the world’s most scenic backyards. A rugged and untamed wilderness, the Sonoran Desert is a 120,000-square-mile reminder that the American West’s frontier spirit is alive and kicking. Overflowing with towering mesas, solitary Saguaros and exotic wildlife, this timeless tableau has remained virtually unchanged for thousands of years. But Scottsdale also appeals to city slickers who head back to town for pampering spa treatments, shopping sprees and award-winning dining experiences.
The “You Only Live Once” Splurge List
STEAKHOUSE STAMPEDE
A trio of celebrity chefs is wrangling for Scottsdale steakhouse supremacy. First out of the chute is Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak at the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess and its globe-straddling collection of the world’s finest cuts of beef, including the dry aged New York strip. Next up in this steakhouse shootout is executive chef Beau MacMillan of ‘elements’ at the Sanctuary Camelback Mountain Resort & Spa. His skills were put to the test when The Food Network invited him to appear on “Iron Chef America,” for an episode in which his Kobe beef dish bested that of Iron chef Bobby Flay. Driving home this herd is renowned chef Jean-George Vongerichten’s J&G Steakhouse, a fine- dining hideaway perched atop The Phoenician that features bedazzling floor-to-ceiling vistas and a to- die-for menu of premium meats and fish.
SADDLE SORES AT COWBOY COLLEGE
“If you can survive six days at Arizona Cowboy College in Scottsdale, you can do anything,” says Rocco Wachman, your “whip ass” instructor. Rocco, and college owner Lori Bridwell have been putting wannabe broncobusters in saddles for more than 20 years—everyone from “head honchos” of major corporations to a “Barbie doll” afraid of breaking her nails. Rocco figures the secret to Cowboy College’s success rate is threefold: put together a small group of folks who’ve never before met; have an expert teach them new skills; scare them to death on a daily basis. “That’s what makes memories and builds friendships for life. You’ll never find a better team-building experience,” says Rocco. “And if you’re not sore when you leave here, then I haven’t done my job.” cowboycollege.com
A SCOTTSDALE DINING LANDMARK
A Scottsdale dining institution dating back to the 1930s, El Chorro delivers professional service in an elegant setting, either outdoors on the patio where numerous fireplaces add warmth and ambience. Don’t be surprised when your waiter brings you cinnamon buns instead of bread; this is a tradition that regulars insist upon. I took mine home for breakfast the next day. For dinner, I recommend the tuna/crab dynamite and tequila-soused jumbo shrimp. elchorro.com
THE NEW MOUNTAIN SHADOWS
Ideally located in Paradise Valley, the new Mountain Shadows Resort is a boutique property with superb views of Camelback Mountain. My room outfitted with a deep soaker tub was positioned so I could have a bubble bath while watching the sunset. A complimentary valet service is especially appreciated when you are schlepping golf clubs. Recreational facilities include outdoor pool, hot tubs, gym and a new Short Course, the only par-three, 18-hole tract in Arizona designed by Forest Richardson. Travis, the mixologist at the Living Room bar, an expert in all things alcoholic, will concoct some of his award-winning cocktails or create something especially to your liking. mountainshadows.com
COWHAND CHIC
Want to dress like Dale Evans or Roy Rogers? Well then, mosey on over to downtown Scottsdale’s preeminent Western store for nearly 80 years. Saba’s is the go-to place for vintage-inspired and new-West designs in apparel, boots, hats, belts and more. sabas.com
The “Cheap Thrills” Save List
COFFEE TRAIL
If you’re a coffee snob like me, you’ll want to hit downtown Scottsdale’s Coffee Trail. The Cartel Coffee Lab makes a decent latte and thankfully they have an outlet at the Phoenix Airport so you can sidestep Starbucks and treat yourself to a better class of java. cartelcoffeelab.com
GRAB YOUR PARTNER
At Handlebar J’s classic saloon get your feed of fall-off-the-bone ribs and live music. They also offer free step and swing dancing lessons. handlebarj.com
WRIGHT GOES WEST
From the moment he first set eyes upon the Sonoran Desert in the late 1920s as a consulting architect on the Arizona Biltmore Resort, Frank Lloyd Wright was smitten “by the beauty of the desert, by the dry, clear, sun-drenched air, by the stark geometry of the mountains.” Eventually Wright purchased 640 acres in what was then the distant outskirts of Scottsdale, where he spent more than two decades carving a residence and architecture school out of the rugged McDowell Mountain foothills. Now a National Historic Landmark, Taliesin West attracts more than 150,000 visitors annually. Explore Wright’s singular talent for integrating indoor and outdoor spaces with a choice of various tours. franklloydwright.org
A DESERT IN NAME ONLY
At first glance, Scottsdale’s Sonoran Desert outskirts can seem a bit barren and, well, desert-like, especially when seen from the window of an airplane or while zipping down the interstate. Dig a little deeper, though – be it on foot, horseback or inside a guided Hummer – and this sweeping expanse reveals itself as a vibrant oasis bursting at the seams with unusual wildlife and one-off vegetation.
In fact, from America’s only native venomous lizard (the lethargic gila monster) to wild herds of pig-like javelina, the Sonoran Desert is home to some 60 mammal, 350 bird, 100+ reptile and 30 native fish species. Then there’s the unmistakable beauty of the Sonoran Desert’s 2,000+ native plant species, many of which are on display at the serene Desert Botanical Garden.
Nestled amidst the wind-swept red buttes of Papago Park, this 145-acre, 50,000- plant oasis hosts one of the world’s finest collections of desert flora, including 169 rare and endangered species. Alongside perennial favourites such as the herbarium, cacti and succulent galleries, and the Desert Discovery Trail, the Garden also hosts summer nighttime flashlight tours and a popular Music in the Garden series. dbg.org