The sun is a red orb sitting low on the horizon. The only sound is the eerie cry of an African Fish Eagle. It’s all rather splendid, quietly cruising on the Zambezi Queen by Mantis along the Chobe River, between Namibia’s Caprivi Strip and Botswana’s Chobe National Park, which together contain one of Africa’s densest concentrations of wildlife.
From the afar, the sleek floating boutique hotel I’m on looks like a floating sculpture, her white angular structure etched with floor-to-ceiling windows, and striped with balcony railings on each of her outer decks.
Standing at the bow of the boat, on the second-floor deck, I see Africa from a different vantage point. I’m looking head-on at a herd of elephant drinking from the Chobe. The animals look different from the water side. Instead of looking down on them from the height of a jeep, you’re gazing up or across. Kudus seem larger, hippos more menacing, crocodiles sunning on the riverbank, mouths agape. You’re encountering them in places that feel private. You feel insignificant on the water, more exposed.
On the Botswana side of the river is Chobe National Park. In the distance is a fast-approaching convoy of 4×4 safari vehicles packed with mobile phone-wielding tourists. Each vehicle driven by guides who are financially motivated to get close to the animals. These vehicles would surround a herd of elephants and getting uncomfortably near, which distresses the beasts to the point where they’re forced to relocate, only to be accosted by another conveyor belt procession of 4x4s. This forces the elephants to the riverbank, where the vehicles have no access, and crisp, clear photos for me.
This is by far the best way to safari. No sweaty, bumpy, and dusty game drives. Just chilling on the deck of an uber luxury houseboat, G&T in hand.
A unique eco-travel experience
Getting there is as exciting as the riverboat cruise itself and requires two flights and several border checkpoints. A flight to Johannesburg (South Africa), then another to Kasane (Botswana) – the gateway town to the Chobe National Park. After getting your passport stamped, you’ve officially exited Botswana and, via tender-boat, transfer to Impalila Island where passport control officially welcomes you to Namibia. Minutes later you’re back in the tender-boat; next stop the Zambezi Queen.
On arrival, you’re warmly received with female staff singing a welcome song. You’re taken upstairs and shown to your cabin. The muted subtlety of the African themed décor, the predominance of overstuffed pillows and soft couches all combine to create a sophisticated vibe.
The top (third floor) deck is where the common areas are – an indoor dining room, a lounge, and bar. At the bow is a splash pool and sun loungers, at the stern is another bar and outdoor lounging area.
Later in the evening, I wandered to the stern to gaze at the Milky Way. The cooler night had set in and released the scents trapped by the hot day – the sweet warm waft of the potato bush, and the sharp citronella smell of khaki weed. With zero light pollution its especially rewarding. You’ll lose track of time counting shooting stars. The boat itself is configured for just this kind of discovery.
I woke before dawn and stood outside on my deck in the mist smudged darkness of first light, breathing in the spicy wood scent of Africa. A herd of elephants – the Chobe National Park boasts an elephant population currently estimated at 120,000 – emerged ghostlike, silently approaching the water’s edge, they had a drink then left quietly, melting into the ground mist.
The sun began to rise, catching itself in the trees on the far bank, bleeding red and gold across the water. Then the birds, in an explosion of African colours assumed the responsibility of opening the day, singing the stories of their lives to all who would listen.
The African bush stirred some more with the high-pitched screeching of cicadas – a constant background of sound.
I quickly dressed and relocated to the stern of the boat, armed with my cameras. A thermos of fully leaded coffee appeared just as I spotted a huge kudu bull. He stood beside a thorn bush, his horns corkscrewing up a good four feet. He stared me down – the perfect V on his nose my camera’s target. He sniffed the air then, with a magnificent leap, his horns laid across his back like medieval weapons, he disappeared, plunging greyly into the bush.
Turning to the opposite bank, my lens finds a bask of monster crocodiles. Their knobby green-grey armour plating made them barely detectable in the wind rustled reeds. Several flung themselves with unsettling speed and agility into the water where I imagined them to be surging under the boat.
Before lunch I had seen a kaleidoscope of giraffe, several hippo pods, a troop of baboons, and a herd of buffalo. But the most spectacular of all was the sighting of Eland – Africa’s biggest antelope, bison-like, with huge shoulder humps. Sleek, taupe and plump, they toss their long horns and swish their tails and chew their cuds, mouths flecked with green foam. They are without predators as they are too tall for lions and too big for leopards.
The afternoon turned into a thick mellow evening. The light filtered syrup yellow as the heat of the day melted away. As the sun began to sink towards the horizon it turned the sky deep red, as if it were on fire.
Zambezi Queen
It was time for me to meet Captain Patrick Muhanubi, a tall, softly spoken man, who gave me the spec of the Zambezi Queen, which notably ticks all the green eco boxes.
The 42m long award-winning Zambezi Queen has 14 suites (each has its own outer decks) and a 28-person crew – local Namibians from the surrounding villages. She runs on jet propulsion to avoid damaging the riverbed. Hot water comes courtesy of solar panels; and generators are shut down at night, saving power and diminishing noise pollution.
Muhanubi explains that the Zambezi Queen slowly plies a 25-km. stretch of the river alongside Botswana’s elephant-packed Chobe National Park and that two small tender-boats are used for daily excursions, taking you nearer to the riverbanks, and the wildlife on it.
These ‘game drives’ occur twice a day – at dawn, especially for those who want to try their hand at catch-and-release Tiger Fishing, and in the late afternoon for sundowners. There’s also a cultural tour of a local village where the dark mouths of thatched huts house 65 industrious people. There is little as stirring as many full-throated African voices raised in harmony.
You will eat well too. The meals, including delectable deserts, are gourmet delights – a temple to fine cuisine. After dinner on the second night, new friendships were celebrated in the traditional African way – swirling robes and brightly coloured dresses, drumming, singing, dancing. Then the Westerners hit the floor to shake their traditional skirts. In closing, the choir sang an old African hymn, Nkosi Sikelel’ iAfrika: God bless Africa, give her life, watch over her children.
The Mantis Collection is committed to continuous growth of its staff, empowering them to better their own lives, their families, and communities. Mavis, the onboard chef, had no formal education and started as a scullery maid. She was given an opportunity to demonstrate her skills and soon rose in the ranks. Similarly, Captain Patrick was initially part of the maintenance team, and showed an interest in sailing. He too received the relevant training and in 2016, earned his stripes. It is a tourism win-win with a huge feel-good factor.
A TRAVELLER’S PERSPECTIVE
A large elephant herd was crossing the river whilst launch-boats were crowding them in. A pleasure craft, filled with cheering travellers, blocked the bull leading the herd from exiting the river. He turned right but another, even larger vessel blocked his passage, and to the other side was a collection of 11 launch-boats directly between the elephants and the riverbank.
He turned around to swim back to where they came, but then more boats crowded in. The animals were distressed, the calves were exhausted, going underwater, mothers were trumpeting and flapping their ears. Several of the smaller vessels recognized the imminent danger and made passage for the elephants.
This is a far by far not the only wildlife tragedy – it’s all over Africa. In Kenya, the Cheetah population is dying out, as they simply cannot hunt because of the interference of safari vehicles. In Africa, safari tourists have become the paparazzi.
If safaris history is imbedded in hunting, cameras have now replaced guns.
What’s the solution? Shut down mass-tourism outfits and replace them with high-tariff, low volume operators. It should be expensive. Very expensive. It’s a privilege, not a right.
It’s important to practice responsible tourism and support conservation efforts in Africa by choosing tour operators that prioritize sustainability and minimize their impact on the environment. This includes operators that follow ethical wildlife viewing practices, promote responsible waste management, and support local conservation initiatives.