27 FEB 2019: Greetings from Mexico’s Riviera Nayarit where my husband and I are enjoying three months of idyllic weather, wonderful food and the hospitality of the gracious locals. We have rented a condo in a gated community called Punta Esmeralda, ideally located minutes from both Bucerias and La Cruz de Huanacaxtle on the Riviera Nayarit. We are about half hour up the Bay from Puerto Vallarta.

This paradisiac stretch along the Bay of Banderas, framed by the verdant Sierra Madre Mountains, is a region of splendid contrasts where visitors have choices about whether to “save or splurge” in every town and village. You can buy a fresh mango on a stick and a home baked muffin from a beach vendor for a $3 breakfast, or find yourself dining under the stars at a five-star resort for dinner. We are spoiled by choice.

I’ve listed the major towns, starting at the top end of the Bay and working south, with suggestions on where to pinch pesos or go “loco.”

San Francisco

Nicknamed San Pancho by the locals, there’s a lot to discover here.

Splurge

If you’re keen on watching some earth-pounding chukkas, head to La Patrona Equestrian Center & Polo Club, the only one in the state of Nayarit, founded in 2,000. Go for the Sunday Polo Brunch and enjoy unlimited Mimosas and a bountiful brunch consisting of empanadas, ceviche and guacamole followed by heaping platters of barbequed meats and grilled veggies.

For a perfectly indulgent Sunday in San Pancho, head to the new Tierra Tropical Beach Club after polo, settle into a comfortable lounge chair and let the staff spoil you.

Sunday Polo Brunches at La Patrona Equestrian Center & Polo Club take place from November until April. The cost is about $80 and includes Mimosas, brunch and the match. www.lapatronaclub.com

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I had my best breakfast in Mexico at El Cielo Rojo, a cute boutique hotel and organic restaurant. Hot-from-the-oven scones with local honey preceded an amazing rendition of huevos rancheros served atop homemade blue tortillas. Cielo Rojo also sells its own brand of tequila.

Take a tour of the Entreamigos community centre. The organizers took over an abandoned dairy in 2009 and transformed it using eco friendly materials. The library and computer area encourages local children to improve their reading skills. A small store sells donated clothing and household items for a pittance. From their extensive recycling centre plastic detergent bottles are transformed into pull-toys. Tequila and wine bottles become glasses and vases. There’s even a Canadian contribution. Gilles Ste-Croix, co-founder of the Cirque du Soleil, who has a home on the beach, has set up a circus school for the kids.

The beach scene in San Pancho is more tranquil than at Sayulita or Bucerias. Pull up a chair and dig your feet into the sand at Las Palmas and order the tuna tostadas—carpaccio of the freshest tuna topped with crispy caramelized onions and a secret sauce.

Sayulita

More than a surfer town, Sayulita gives off a bohemian-chic vibe with temptations for all budgets and ages.

Splurge

If you want to buy an unusual souvenir, consider an authentic piece of intricate beadwork made by the Huichol aboriginals. When the Spanish conquistadors arrived early in the 16th century, the Huichols (also known as the Peyote People) fled to the Sierra Madre Mountains where they were able to retain their religion and customs, which include the ceremonial use of peyote. Their hallucinogenic visions inspire their psychedelic art that comes in the forms of intricately beaded masks, animals, bowls, bracelets and more. Visit the Galeria Tanana (Revolucion #22).

Don Pedro’s restaurant, ideally located on the beach serves great food. I love their whole grilled artichokes.

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Test the waves by taking a surf lesson or rent a boogie board from the beach vendors. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, head to ChocoBanana where they dip bananas in chocolate and serve them frozen, popsicle-style.

Punta de Mita

Up until the late 70s, Punta de Mita was a sleepy fishing village. All that changed with the development of the luxurious Punta Mita Resort consisting of two Jack Nicklaus golf courses, The Four Seasons Resort, St. Regis and luxury villas moved in.

However you can still “do” Punta Mita on either a cerveza or a champagne budget.

Splurge

You’ll be pampered and wined and dined like an Aztec god or goddess at either the Four Seasons or St. Regis Resorts. Adapting the food truck concept, Mita Mary Boat Bar & Bistro drops anchor at the St. Regis each day. Savour the catch of the day with your toes in the sand.

A bit of trivia: In 1934, Fernand Petiot, the bartender at The St. Regis New York’s King Cole Bar, perfected the recipe for a vodka-and-tomato juice cocktail he dubbed the Bloody Mary. Today, the Bloody Mary remains the signature cocktail of the St. Regis brand, with each hotel crafting its own interpretation of the libation. The Mita Mary, containing clam juice, tequila, avocado and coriander celebrates Mexico’s native and Spanish heritage

Four Seasons was the first resort in Punta Mita. At their spa indulge in a hakali, rejuvenating massage using tequila, sage and the nopal cactus. Your therapist uses nopal paddles to apply the lotion. Nopal helps to remove toxins and re-hydrate your skin.

Lobster Paradise is a new beachside restaurant serving up fabulous seafood. Highly recommend are the catch-of-the-day oysters and decadent lobster tacos.

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Naef Café serves food with French flare in a casual courtyard setting, but the real draw here is the artisan ice cream with unusual flavours such as green tea and passion fruit.

The ATM bus line runs all the way up to Punta Mita from central Puerto Vallarta. It’s about $2 for the bone-rattling ride that takes about an hour from PV. Get off at the Oxxo store. It’s much cheaper than a taxi and far more fun as you never know who’ll get on the bus and try to sell you candies, nuts or a serenade.

La Cruz de Huanacaxtle

This old fishing village is gradually being gentrified and boasts the most modern marina on Mexico’s Pacific Coast and a fresh fish market open daily.

Splurge

Dine overlooking the Marina at La Peska. Try the teriyaki tuna tostadas, grilled octopus or shrimp ceviche.

Take a day cruise with Ally Cat Sailing Adventures to Islas Las Marietas, a wildlife sanctuary and marine preserve. You might spot rare blue-footed boobies, whales, dolphins and sea turtles. The catamaran is equipped with all sorts of water toys. The cost, $95US, includes all your drinks, food and an entertaining crew. Catch the Ally Cat in the La Crux Marina.

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Stop by the Mercado del Mar early in the morning to see fishermen arriving with their catch of the day. On Sundays from October to April this same space becomes a bustling organic farmers’ and handicraft market. Across from the town’s main plaza, you’ll get a good cappuccino and breakfast at Café Shulel, a cute family-run hole-in-the-wall.

Tuck into beef tacos with all the fixings and cheap buckets of beer at Tacos on the Street (open Wednesday through Sunday starting at 5 p.m.).

The Octopus’s Garden is a favourite haunt in La Cruz. It’s a hostel, a restaurant, a gallery for Huichol art and a place to take lots of lessons—from Latin Dance to Tai Chi. La Cruz has plenty of great places to enjoy local music and this is one of the best.

Bucerias

A favourite for Canadians, Bucerias’ traditional Mexican plaza faces a wonderful beach for swimming. The town is chock full of interesting boutiques and great eateries.

Splurge

Learn to make salsas and regional dishes from all over the country and then enjoy your dinner with Travis and Edgar who run My Mexican Kitchen.

At Sandrina’s try to catch a Flamenco show in the patio two Mondays per month. The front of the restaurant is a boutique with all sorts of hand-chosen gems.

On the south side of the Kissing Bridge, you can’t go wrong at Karen’s Place, famous for its barbecued ribs, steaks and innovative seafood dishes, such as Parmesan crusted red snapper. Karen’s location on the beach makes it a favourite for happy hour and sunset watching.

Walk through the door at Trattoria Toscana Mia and you’ll think you’ve been transported to Tuscany. Indeed, the family came from Montecatini in 2008 and the authentic, slow-cooked recipes are from Mamma Pina. The aromas wafting from the brick pizza oven are tantalizing. Pasta and most other things on the menu are made from scratch. Reservations are advisable.

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Tiny Café is literally a brightly painted hole in the wall at the corner of the Lateral and Calle Hidalgo. Barista and owner, Juan, is a lovely guy and I think he makes the best lattes in town. His sister, Karen, runs another little café a couple of blocks away.

Paninos bakery and café in the centre of town serves baked goods, sandwiches and breakfasts. Their eggs Benedict are the best I’ve every tasted. And the cinnamon buns are worth the calories.

La Postal, located where the town’s post office used to be, serves terrific thin-crusted pizza alfresco-style. Finish your meal with a scoop or two of gelato.

Thursday night, from November to April join Art Walk along the main street. Drop in to several galleries and boutiques to meet the artists, share a glass of wine or tequila and browse the local art scene.

Named after the owner’s dog, La Negra serves up tropical food with a twist. The tuna sashimi comes alive with Asian ingredients such as sesame oil, soy and fresh ginger. Shrimp and cheese tacos are also recommended. La Negra offers several unique cocktails made with mescal and locally crafted beers.

Shop and save with the locals for fresh produce and all sorts of household items at the Bucerias Sunday Market, located up the “river.” During winter this riverbed that bisects Bucerias is dry but in rainy season all that changes. On Wednesday mornings, you’ll find a thriving food and crafts market in the parking lot of the Chedraui supermarket.