PUB CRAWL: Finding the perfect pivo in Prague

On my first visit to Prague, I couldn’t get over the local men standing in the street drinking (dark) beer for breakfast. (At least I assumed it was breakfast). Then again, one was aware of the central European notion that beer was merely “liquid bread.”

On that first visit, before the fall of the wall, tavern-hopping in the Czechoslovakian capital was similarly eye-opening: the utterly ambiguous and unmarked establishments were dark and smoky and ubiquitous plates of gravy-smothered roast beef (at least I assumed it was roast beef) and dumplings cost about a buck. We ventured from one to another and it seemed absurd at that price not to eat a full meal in each. The pivo (beer) cost little more.

An (authentic) Bud and a bite costs rather more nowadays and most Czech (without the Slovak) pubs have upped their game, but in my experience, it’s the traditional venues that best reveal the true soul of a destination.

Two of the Prague’s best in this respect are U Zlateho Tygra (Golden Tiger), a famous traditional beer hall in the city centre, and U Cerneho Vola (Black Ox), one of the last authentic pubs in the castle district.

Neither is known for its bells and whistles – simply good food and great beer – and authentic Czech atmosphere.

U Zlateho Tygra (Golden Tiger)

The Tygra, for example, is simply an extended room furnished with long tables and benches, ensuring that one is most likely to be seated beside a local patron (or perhaps famous guest like Bill Clinton or Vaclav Havel). After all, the establishment, according to the Prague Pub Guide “has been the most skillful in keeping at bay the tourist hordes.”

Those who do come are fans of renowned Czech writer Bohumil Hrabal, who frequented the establishment for some 60 years, or, more likely for its famed beer cheese and the fresh (unpasteurized) Pilsner Urquell – deemed by many to be the best in the city and served precisely and perfectly at 12 degrees C. Waiters immediately pour a mug for patrons upon arrival and continue as needed and unbidden until told to stop

The Black Ox is another Prague classic, found in Loreta (Loretánské) Square, one of the loveliest in the city and not far from Prague Castle. While ornate on the outside, the tavern is a throwback to the 1970s, and a diminished breed of old-style Prague beer hall. Historic artifacts (Bohemian coats of arms) contrast with a simple communist-era style and clientele is decidedly local despite its touristy environs.

Kozel is the notable beer on tap (both light and dark, the latter served at 10 degrees C – two full degrees less than the light should you consider it important to know). The brew is also a rarity in the city. Food is authentic and hearty. As your visit is sure to be.

The Black Ox is open daily from 10 a.m. (beer for breakfast?) to 10 p.m.

Golden Tiger is located at 228.17 Husova street, just off Karlova and near the Old Town Square. It is open daily from 3 to 11 p.m.

U Cerneho Vola (Black Ox), photo – A. Červená

“Pub Crawl” is an ongoing series in which we reveal some of our favourite public houses, both at home and abroad – and, in the spirit of the establishment, invite you to share with us yours. Send suggestions to baginski@travelindustrytoday.com.

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