23 MAY 2018: Biting into a Toblerone chocolate pyramid, the last of my stash from a recent trip to Switzerland, brings back sweet memories of Montreux and the Swiss Riviera. We can thank the Swiss for many good things including sublime milk chocolate, fabulous cheese (hence the national dish, fondue) and some of the world’s best pocketknives.
You’ll dine well all over this country of 26 cantons and four official languages (French, German, Italian and Romansh) but the gastronomic Mecca is the Montreux Riviera nestled between the balmy north shore of Lake Geneva (or Lac Léman as the Swiss call it) and the frosted Swiss Alps.
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Ode to Food
Begin your epicurean romp by taking a short, relaxing cruise on one of the lake’s vintage steamers from Montreux to neighbouring Vevey. Meander along the lakeside promenade, past a statue of one of the town’s most famous residents, Charlie Chaplin, and literally follow the fork to the Alimentarium, the world’s one-and-only food museum, operated by Nestlé, the world’s largest food company whose headquarters are also in Vevey.
The gigantic eight-metre fork, created by Swiss artists Jean-Pierre Zaugg and Georges Favre juts out of the lake like a playful beacon while swans glide around its prongs.
A vegetable garden at the entrance to the Alimentarium provides ingredients for the kitchen inside where chefs offer daily cooking demonstrations for adults and kids. Various hands-on displays throughout the museum provide a fascinating insight into the world of food— from the benefits of the Mediterranean Diet to ethical foie gras. www.alimentarium.ch
Welcome to the World of Charlie Chaplin
Memories of Charlie Chaplin live on above the shores of Lake Geneva, where new and older generations can get to know more about one of the silver screen’s greatest comic geniuses. The Manoir de Ban in Corsier-sur-Vevey, where Chaplin spent the final 25 years of his life, was transformed into a museum that combines culture and entertainment in celebration of his life and his work. www.chaplinsworld.com
All Aboard
A day aboard the Chocolate Train is worth its weight in calories. The posh Pullman coach, refurbished with vintage brass hardware, pulls out of the Montreux station and winds its way along the shores of Lake Geneva, past the steeply terraced Lavaux vineyards to Gruyère station while passengers enjoy hot chocolate, coffee and croissants.
At the Maison du Gruyère take a self-guided audio tour with Cherry the cow as your commentator. You’ll learn that Cherry and her bovine buddies spend their summers high in the mountain pastures grazing on wild herbs, flowers, fresh grass and perhaps some vanilla orchids for dessert. This diet produces a complex cheese in which scientists have detected up to 75 flavours.
After touring the cheese-making facility guests take a five-minute bus ride to medieval Gruyère, a tiny postcard-perfect hamlet dominated by a fairytale castle. The cobblestone village is choc-a-bloc with restaurants serving traditional fondue, raclette, quiche and double cream with berries for dessert. This is not a day to fret about your cholesterol count.
Back on the train, the next stop is the Maison Cailler in Broc where Nestlé offers tours of its chocolate factory and plenty of free samples.
A Swiss Travel Pass from Rail Europe buys you unlimited travel on trains, trams, boats and buses, plus entry to more than 400 museums and the Chocolate Train. However, you need to reserve a seat at an additional cost. www.goldenpass.ch
Castle on the Shore
Back in 1816 when Lord Byron penned his poem, The Prisoner of Chillon, about a convict chained in the castle’s dungeon, he put Montreux and Switzerland’s most photographed lakeside Chillon Castle on the tourist map. Bring your camera and a picnic. www.chillon.ch
Majestic Digs
The 4-star Swiss Majestic Hotel is conveniently located directly across from the train station. Ask for a room with a balcony overlooking the lake. www.suisse-majestic.com
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Star-Spangled Degustation
Near the Alimentarium in Vevey, chef Denis Martin’s molecular cuisine has earned him two Michelin stars. His 19-course “Evolution” menu is meant to be an unforgettable gastronomic splurge with a few surprises. At 360 Euros per person, Martin’s molecular adventure is best recommended for intrepid “foodies” with deep pockets and a sense of humour. www.denismartin.ch
Fruits of the Vines
The Wine Train (Train des Vignes) leaves from Vevey and climbs the steeply terraced Lavaux vineyards above Lake Geneva, home to the Chasselas white grape and named a UNESCO heritage site in 2007. Get off in the picturesque village of Chexbres, sample the wines and take home a vintage souvenir. www.switzerlandbyrail.com
Pearl of the Riviera
Built in 1906, Fairmont Le Montreux Palace, a jewel of Belle Époque architecture that’s been dubbed “the pearl of the Riviera,” has hosted everyone from Sophia Loren to Michael Jackson. It is the place to hang out during the enchanting Christmas Market and the Montreux Jazz Festival held the first two weeks of July.
A Montreux resident tells me that the hotel’s Harry’s New York Bar hops all night long during the festival, which attracts more than 230,000 visitors and entertainers such as Van Morrison, Miles Davis, Eric Clapton and Billy Idol. Apparently the musicians love the vibe in Montreux because the fans and locals don’t engage in pop-idol swarming or panty tossing. www.fairmont.com