24 APR 2019: From fishing village to British Colony, Hong Kong became a Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China with the handover in 1997. It lost none of its cosmopolitan glamour and glitter in that exchange, and there’s still a hustle, bustle and buzz here like nowhere else on the planet.
My premise when travelling to global hot spots is that you may only visit here once, so you better make the most of your time and money. Just because you haven’t won the lottery doesn’t mean you can’t indulge in some frivolous fantasies in this “Manhattan on steroids” because I’ll also give you some ideas on how to stretch your Hong Kong dollars during 2019, the Year of the Pig.
(All prices approximated in Canadian dollars.)
THE “YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE” SPLURGE LIST
Best Seat in the Sky
For the long haul, consider Cathay Pacific’s Business Class service. Pampered passengers can stretch out flat on revolutionary new wider seats that convert to ergonomically designed beds with the touch of a remote. Snuggle under the fluffy duvet and snooze in privacy your own cocoon. If you’re travelling with a companion you can push another button and your seat slides forward allowing you to converse over a central coffee table.
I’d nominate Cathay Pacific for the world’s best airline lounge award. In the Wing and Pier lounges at the Hong Kong airport, business-class flyers enjoy such creature comforts as cooked-to-order noodles, library and reading rooms. Unique to The Pier lounge are a Teahouse where you can sip seasonal and artisanal brews and The Sanctuary, the first dedicated yoga and meditation space in the Hong Kong International Airport.
www.cathaypacific.com
Peak Experience
Ride the venerable Peak Tram to the top of Victoria Peak for spectacular views of the harbour below. In Hong Kong you’re never far from a shopping or dining opportunity. Shop for edgy items at G.O.D. (Goods of Desire) then choose from all-day dim sum to thin-crust pizza to Bubba Gump shrimp.
www.thepeak.com.hk
Handbag Heaven
With several outlets in Hong Kong, Milan Station sells gently used top designer bags—from Vuitton to Gucci to Chanel. They aren’t cheap but they also aren’t fake. It seems that there are so many fashionista socialites in town that there’s a surplus of second-hand purses. I mean who wants to be caught lugging around last season’s Hermes?
www.milanstation.com.hk
Let me Take you Higher
Billing itself as the highest bar in the world, Ozone on the 118th floor of the Ritz-Carlton hotel, offers both an outdoor terrace and indoor lounge with an ultra cool vibe where you should sip a signature cocktail and nibble on Asian tapas.
www.ritzcarlton.com
Harbour Grand Kowloon
At the aptly named Harbour Grand in Kowloon you’re just far enough from the madding crowd to enjoy real peace and quiet. The hotel offers free shuttles to the MTR Hunghom Station and downtown Tsimshatsui. Their international buffet breakfast overlooking the harbour is fantastic. Chill out around the huge rooftop pool and deck. This property gets my vote for the best doorman in Hong Kong.
www.harbourgrand.com/kowloon
Retail Therapy
Drop into one of the Shanghai Tang stores for retail eye candy. From bed linens to fragrance to men’s and women’s clothing, traditional Chinese designs have been updated to create fabulous fusion fashion. Drop your remaining HK dollars at the airport location.
www.shanghaitang.com.
THE “CHEAP THRILLS” SAVE LIST
Stellar Dim Sum
Tim Ho Wan, probably the world’s most affordable Michelin one-star restaurant, is run by chef Mak Pui Gor, who previously worked at Hong Kong’s Four Seasons Hotel in their three-starred restaurant. Don’t expect fine china or fancy linens but bring an appetite for divine dim sum served fast and piping hot. The average price for a dish is about $2.50. I highly recommend the plump shrimp dumplings, BBQ pork buns and spareribs in black bean sauce. Get there early to avoid long line-ups and take a number.
The original hole in the wall is at 2-8 Kwong Wah Street in Mong Kok; now there’s a new location at Sham Shui Po where they take reservations from Monday to Friday.
www.timhowan.com
Don’t miss the boat
One of the planet’s best bargains has to be the Star Ferry crossing between Kowloon and Central Hong Kong. First class costs about 50 cents and takes seven minutes. Join the all-day aquatic rush hour on Victoria Harbour for views of Hong Kong’s futuristic skyscrapers, especially dramatic when illuminated at night.
Bargains on the Beach
Open daily from about 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Stanley Market is my favourite haunt for cashmere, Chinese silk jackets, scarves, ties and you name it. Buyer beware: haggling for a “genuine imitation” Rolex might be fun but your $20-dollar bargain might stop ticking before you get home. If you’d rather shop with peace of mind, look for stores displaying the Quality Tourism Services (QTS) sign, organized by the Hong Kong Tourism Board.
Après shopping, enjoy lunch alfresco-style overlooking the beach at Ocean Bay, two minutes from the market stalls. I recommend the smoked salmon salad or fish and chips.
Catch of the Hour
Your fish is so fresh it’s still swimming in tanks outside a strip of seafood eateries in Sai Kung. Just point and they’ll cook to order. My recent feast included steamed crab, scallops with glass noodles, razorback clams and whole steamed grouper with garlic and ginger. Dine outdoors for seaside views of sampans and junks.
Why the “Y”?
Rooms for two at the Salisbury YMCA start at about $140 but this is not your basic “Y.” Prime location (beside the landmark Peninsula Hotel and waterfront promenade), TV, air conditioning, two restaurants, kids’ playground, pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, fitness centre and hair salon are just some of the features. Advance reservations highly recommended.
www.ymcahk.org.hk.
New West Kowloon Culture Corner
In West Kowloon’s artsy new area head to the Xiqu Centre Tea House Theatre for an introduction Chinese traditional theatre accompanied by traditional tea and dim sum.
www.westkowloon.hk
World’s Biggest Buddha
On Lantau Island ride the Ngong Ping Cable Car up to the world’s biggest outdoor bronze Buddha statue (34 metres high) who sits peacefully atop 268 steps. At the base, visit the splendid Po Lin Monastery, dating back to 1906 and sample a simple vegetarian lunch. If that doesn’t appeal, there are plenty of other eateries and shops in the Ngong Ping Plaza.
The Culture and Heritage Tour of Lantau, about $75, includes the Ngong Ping Village, Po Lin Monastery, Giant Buddha and Tai O Fishing Village where a small community built on stilts still clings to a traditional way of life.
www.np360.com.hk