The characteristic bustle of Cuba is gradually rebounding after 20 months of pandemic restrictions, with the key moment arriving today (Nov. 15) with the start of the full opening of airports, gateways to a tourism industry that feeds thousands of families.
Crafts vendors have returned to the streets, transport between provinces is gradually returning to normal and crowds once again line the seafront Malecon boulevard as night falls over Havana.
“Thank God we have a job again,” said Manuel Santos, a 58-year-old taxi driver who is awaiting the arrival of tourists after surviving for months delivering packages rather than visitors in his mid-50s Chevrolet convertible. “Let’s see if everything continues like this and this country can move ahead.”
A significant decrease in infections and mortality caused by the virus has followed an inoculation campaign with three locally developed vaccines — Soberana 02, Soberana Plus and Abdala. So far, Cuba has registered nearly a million infections of the new coronavirus and over 8,000 deaths, according to the Ministry of Health. The vaccination campaign, covering everyone two and up, has given all three scheduled doses to 7.3 million people on this island of 11 million people.
What authorities call the “new normal” will retain safeguards: Facemasks and cleansing gel is mandatory. There may be no quarantine, but all travellers have to have complete vaccination or a negative PCR test.
Cuba’s gross domestic product fell by 11% in 2020. For the population, that meant long lines, shortages, blackouts, a black market, and unemployment. The problems were exacerbated by US sanctions and by the socialist government’s financial reorganization, including the elimination of a dual currency system.
Authorities have recognized that inflation is a problem. While the US dollar officially is priced at 24 Cuban pesos, it goes for 70 pesos on the street — the only place where you can get a dollar because the government does not sell them.
In recent weeks, social isolation measures have been eased in almost every sector. Children are back in classrooms, theatres and cinemas have reopened and the famous Tropicana cabaret will return to the stage. Stores have fewer restrictions and more government offices are open.
Officials dropped a ban on congregating on the Malecon seawall to enjoy the ocean view. A nighttime curfew in the capital was lifted. Interprovincial trains and buses began to schedule departures.
Restaurants are authorized to serve at tables once again after months of take-out or home delivery.
At the privately owned La Guarida restaurant workers have been trying to regain their rhythm and restock good that are now sometimes lacking or are only available in dollars.
“We have had a pretty tough financial and emotional time. Many families from many private businesses in Cuba have been at home without work,” said Vivian Aymerich, manager of La Guarida. “I think there will be an improvement.”
The island received 4.2 million tourists in 2019, generating about US$3 billion dollars. That dropped to barely a million visitors in 2020 — concentrated in the first quarter before the pandemic broke in earnest.
This year, from January to September, only 280,000 travellers arrived, mostly Russians who concentrated in relatively isolated tourist areas, some Canadians, and Cubans living abroad who came to visit their families.
The authorities estimate that after the reopening, about 100,000 more visitors will arrive this year.