28 MAR 1018: My husband and I have been wintering in Riviera Nayarit, Mexico, for the past decade. From our base in Bucerias we have explored most of the beach towns up the Bay of Banderas to Punta Mita. This year we decided to expand our horizons. At the invitation of our amigo, Guillermo Guerrero, Public Relations Coordinator for the Office of Visitors and Conventions for Riviera Nayarit, we took a road trip to Tepic, capital of the State of Nayarit and the historic port of San Blas.
Guillermo is not only a font of knowledge about his state, but he’s also a true foodie who knows his “surf and turf.” On this trip he introduced us to some new flavours, including fermented corn mash, hibiscus flower wine and pescado zarundeado (whole fish grilled over smoky mangrove driftwood).
Tepic and magical Jala
Founded in 1542, Tepic, capital of the State of Nayarit, retains its colonial atmosphere, particularly around its cathedral, municipal palace, and shady main plaza. Agriculture, mainly sugar cane, rice and coffee, is the primary industry here and the locals are very proud of their unique products, including wine made from hibiscus blossoms and countless kinds of candy and sweets sold by street vendors.
Where to Splurge
Hotel Real de Don Juan overlooks Governor’s Palace in the central downtown area. Imposing carved wooden angels guard the impressive old-world lobby. Rooms are spacious and decorated with colonial style furniture. The hotel’s restaurant offers professional service and good breakfasts.
Emiliano restaurant in downtown Tepic, housed in a former mansion, has been rated one of Mexico’s best, thanks to the talents of chef Marco Valdivia Carrillo. You might start with a degustation of cheeses. Main courses include rack of lamb, magret de canard and a tempting selection of seafood and fish entrees.
Sommelier Dora, whose personality is as bubbly as a bottle of Champagne, will suggest the perfect wine accompaniment. We discovered a divine mellow Mexican red called Fauno from the Valle de Guadalupe in the Baja Peninsula. When we left, Dora walked us to the door and said,” You are welcome forever.” Gosh I don’t remember ever hearing that when I leave restaurants in Toronto. www.emilianorestaurant.com
Where to Save
If you want to buy an unusual souvenir, consider an authentic piece of intricate beadwork made by the Huichol aboriginals. When the Spanish conquistadors arrived early in the 16th century, the Huichols (also known as the Peyote People) fled to the Sierra Madre Mountains where they were able to retain their religion and customs, which include the ceremonial use of peyote. Their hallucinogenic visions inspire their psychedelic art that comes in the forms of intricately beaded masks, animals, bowls, bracelets and more.
On a street off the main plaza, Huichol artisans sell their beadwork at the bargain prices. You can also pick up some peyote balm to sooth everything from muscle pains to sunburn.
On Avenida Mexico at the Museo Regional de Nayarit you’ll learn much about the indigenous people’s customs from an impressive collection of ceramics sourced from burial sites dating from 200 BC to AD 600. The main displays have English translations.
Just outside of Tepic, stop at Santa Maria del Oro for lunch beside the crater lake. At Viejo Aztlan, try the fish chicharron. This is a variation on deep fried pork rinds, but instead they use local fish skin—crispy and a bit addictive, especially with a cold cerveza.
About 45 minutes from Tepic, we visited Jala. The federal government of Mexico designated Jala as a “magical town” in 2012. Because of their culture, history and/or scenery, more than 80 Mexican towns and villages are “magical.”
They don’t have to be big cities; the population of Jala is only 1,000. But it is said to be the birthplace of corn and the world’s largest corncobs, thanks to the fertile soil in the nearby hills that is enriched by the lava from the Ceboruco volcano that last erupted in the 1870s. Every August Jala celebrates its Sweet Corn Festival to honour the harvest. The National Institute of Anthropology and History has protected Jala’s streets and buildings so every inch of the puebla has retained its traditional essence.
Guillermo introduced us to his amigo Antonio who makes a fermented corn mash drink called tejuino. Under the shade of an orange tree, he mixed his mash with bicarbonate of soda, sugar, ice and the juice of green oranges. According to Mexican history, tejuino was considered to be the “drink of the Gods.” It is purported to be good for everything from a hangover to a health drink for pregnant women and nursing mothers. It tastes both sweet and salty and there’s a slight tang from the fermentation and the juice. Very refreshing.
History and nature in San Blas
Just 54 km from Tepic and 157 km from Puerto Vallarta, San Blas offers a glimpse of the way Mexico used to be before the tourist invasion, the mega resorts and the fast food outlets, San Blas is a breath of fresh air on the Pacific coastline.
The seaport of San Blas, founded in 1768 by New Spain, became the most important shipyard on the Pacific coast. Spanish ships set sail from here to explore California and as far north as Alaska. Remains of this splendid era include a fort on the cliffs and the ruins of an old Customs House. Today San Blas is best known for its 20 miles of virgin beaches, surfing and delicious shrimp. Thanks to a tropical climate, estuaries and mangroves, it attracts a remarkable variety of flora and fauna.
Where to Splurge
Hotel Garza Canela is a family run property with about 50 rooms and suites scattered among winding paths and gardens. Presiding over the hotel restaurant, El Delfin, Betty Vazquez is one of Mexico’s top chefs and the official culinary ambassador for Riviera Nayarit. Many of her signature dishes incorporate ingredients that were introduced by the ancient mariners of San Blas. For example, her fish ceviche is spiked with Persian limes, mint and a hint of curry. She has won awards for her octopus salad with dried apples, mango sauce and cilantro and caraway mayonnaise. Everything at El Delfin is made from scratch. Betty and her family will treat you like an old friend. www.garzacanela.com
According to veteran birder, Mark Stackhouse, San Blas offers the best birding in North America. Salt marshes, mangroves, coastal wetlands, oak forests and jungles provide a varied habitat for a spectacle of birds, including the Mexican Wood nymph. More than 500 species have been recorded in San Blas. (That’s as many as can be found in all of Canada). Stackhouse organizes small group tours for both beginner and seasoned birders through his company called Westwings. www.westwings.com
Where to Save
For a bird’s eye view of the town and coast, head up to the Contraduria (fort) built in colonial times when San Blas was New Spain’s first official port.
Rent a board or learn to “hang ten” at Stoners Surf Camp on Playa el Borrego. National long board champion “Pompis” Cano gives lessons and holds court under the huge palapa.
Visit the central plaza in San Blas, buy some shrimp and then cool off with a coconut milk shake at Chito’s.
Take a boat ride through the Tovara Lagoon where the mangroves provide shelter for a large bird and wildlife population. After the cruise, visit the crocodile sanctuary, also home to some jaguars and exotic birds.