Even as we know we will stay locked in, spring is on its way and warm travel destinations start to fill our thoughts. “Been there, done that” is a frequent refrain, as is the question “Is it very touristy?” Permit me to share details of a wonderful trip that you may not have considered, and one that is not over-touristed. And even if it’s only a wonderful dream at the moment a journey through southern and central Netherlands is something to put on your ‘must go when it’s over’ list.
My husband and I visited these destinations as part of our journey through the rivers and canals of Europe in our own boat. But it would make an equally lovely road trip that will take you through gentle countryside over excellent roads and cycle routes with English-speaking locals to welcome you every mile of the way.
Let’s start in the most southerly city of the Netherlands: Maastricht. This fun-filled university town is lovely with – unusual for the Netherlands – pretty hills surrounding it and even vineyards. (And you can cycle – or even take a run – into Germany if you wish.) Here the visitor will discover cobbled streets, medieval architecture, pavement cafes, dances in city squares and a vibrant cultural scene, due to the students, artists and music lovers that call this city home. Art lovers won’t want to miss a visit to the futuristic art museum Bonnefanten, home of works by Rubens and Brueghel, on the shore of the Maas River, or to the Gothic Sint Janskerk and the Romanesque Basilica of St. Servatius where major collections of art can be found.
The nearby tiny village of Thorn, known as the white village, is unspoilt and seems almost like an open-air museum. For about 800 years, Thorn was the capital of an autonomous secular foundation headed by an abbess and the village square is surrounded by the whitewashed houses where the noble women of the foundation once lived. Today many of the village’s white houses are home to popular and charming restaurants.
A short distance north-west of Thorn lies Eindhoven. This large city was almost totally destroyed in WWII and in the years since it has been rebuilt with some striking modern buildings, many of which are home to innovative technology companies or art centres. Of note here is the interesting Philips Museum which tells the story of the successful electronics company which led to the region’s growth and, sadly, its demise as it attracted so many German bombs. You’ll discover all you’ll ever need to know about lightbulbs here!
Northwards once again lies ’s-Hertogenbosch, or Den Bosch as it is often called. This is another prosperous, lively town full of pavement cafes and bars where we enjoyed sitting outside in the squares watching the well-dressed inhabitants pass by. The city’s favourite son was Hieronymus Bosch and there’s an excellent museum, once a lofty church, showing his works. Well, actually not his works because they don’t have any, but they are superb reproductions and the benefit is that all the ‘works’ are on show in one place. It is really worth a visit, as is the superb Sint Jan church and the Noordbrabants Museum where many famous Dutch (and other) artists represented.
A few miles yonder is Heusden on the shores of the river Maas. This little town should not be missed; it is charming and appears completely unspoilt but, to be more accurate, it has been completely and beautifully restored after extensive damage caused in WWII. This is the Dutch town of everyone’s dreams: no cars are allowed, a traditional windmill presides over a little harbour while small hotels and charming restaurants with patios offer lovely views of the river and distant fields where black and white cows graze. On our boat trip through the Netherlands we stayed here for several days, tied up in the marina under the fortification wall, enjoying not only the town but also the pretty surrounding countryside. In lovely weather we voted this stay was a highlight.
Nijmegen and Arnhem lie to the north east now. Both were badly damaged in the war and thus not very atmospheric, though each has been restored and has historical monuments and magnificent churches.
The area was the site of a disastrous WWII offensive, a story told in the 1977 movie A Bridge too Far, and today Arnhem’s St. Eusebius’ Church commemorates the courage of the Allied paratroopers who took part in this battle with models of men and their parachutes suspended from the cathedral’s roof. The church, almost completely rebuilt since the war, also boasts a high tower (fortunately with an elevator!) that takes visitors aloft for a view of the city and surrounding countryside.
Not to be missed is the Kroller-Muller Museum near Arnhem. This day was another highlight for us. Alighting from the bus outside the village of Otterlo we were moved to discover a small memorial to fallen Canadian soldiers beside the road leading to the Museum. This modern gallery is set in the largest nature reserve in Holland: woodlands, marshland, heath and sand-dunes. Bikes are free for the taking and a cycle ride takes you through these differing terrains.
The modern museum itself is outstanding. Helene Kroller-Muller was one of the first art lovers to appreciate – and collect – the works of Van Gogh. In 1935, near the end of her life, she donated her collection, works by Van Gogh, as well as other modern masters, to the state and thus this fabulous museum was born. There are 278 works by Van Gogh alone. The grounds are beautiful and home to an outstanding sculpture garden. Take a picnic or enjoy the patio restaurant. Our day here was yet another Dutch highlight among so many.
Nearby stands the Paleis Het Loo, another major Dutch site. This elegant palace was, in fact, a hunting lodge (!) built in 1692 by Stadholder William III and ensuing generations of the Orange family used this mansion as a summer residence. Now a museum, it has been dubbed ‘the Versailles of the Netherlands’ and it is well worth a visit, with its sumptuous interior and beautiful formal gardens while many vintage cars and carriages can be viewed in the stables.
So many riches in such a relatively small space! I’ve said it before, I know, but the Netherlands is a wonderful destination. If you’ve enjoyed Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Delft, The Hague, the Keukenhof Gardens and the other famous sites in the west it’s time to plan another trip. Travel into the heart of this delightful country … there is so much to discover.