FAIRWAYS TO HEAVEN: Fun and Games in Phuket

29 AUG 2018: Golf in Thailand began in 1923 when King Vajiravudh the Great agreed to the construction of the first course, Royal Hua Hin. Today there are about 250 courses in the Kingdom. Golf, plus other uniquely Siamese sybaritic pleasures, are all compelling reasons to travel to “Land of Smiles.”

I have recently returned from the Thailand Golf Travel Mart in Phuket. This was the fourth annual event to promote Thailand as a world-class golf destination. Delegates included 280 buyers, sellers and media from around the world.  In 2016 more than 400,000 swingers teed off in Thailand generating approximately $138.5 million US

Phuket, Thailand’s largest island, located in the Andaman Sea, is often referred to as Thailand’s Hawaii. The island offers some of Thailand’s best golf courses, spectacular scenery, tropical sunsets over palm-lined clear blue water beaches and a vast array of restaurants and nightlife.

Relaxing and Red Hot Golf

We played our first round at Loch Palm Golf Course, dubbed “the most relaxing golf course in Phuket.” However, if like me you suffer from what I call “hydrophobia” the numerous fairways winding around Crystal Lake may be cause for some tension as yet another Titleist takes a dive. The 14th signature hole is a downhill par-three with myriad bunkers and a lake guarding its double green.

The neighbouring Red Mountain Golf Club, bills itself as  “the most exciting golf course in Phuket.” I might add the most dramatically beautiful and my favourite in all of Thailand.

Designed by Jon Morrow on what was a former tin mine, Red Mountain dips and dives to take full advantage of the dizzying elevation changes and red rock outcroppings. It’s a challenge but there are all sorts of risk and reward options along the 6,900 serpentine yards.

Natural waste bunkers, towering precipices, deep ravines and flooded gullies are all seamlessly integrated. And as you weave your way through Red Mountain, you are rewarded with panoramic views over Phuket before heading back down another gully lined with tropical forest. The elevation changes so drastically on this layout that golf carts are compulsory. Every aspect of Red Mountain ensures that players are captivated by the exciting diversity of play and the spectacular natural scenery. 


The par-threes on Red Mountain are most memorable. The third requires a carry over what looks like an excavation zone; the spectacular signature 17th has elevated tees and a postage stamp green. Pick the right club and a birdie is yours.

Caddie Chat

In Thailand, caddies are mandatory and almost all of them are women. Each player receives her or his own caddie and cart for the round. At Red Mountain, my caddie told me to call her Bun. Soaking wet she probably weighed about 67 pounds. After a few holes Bun had my game sized up and knew exactly what club to hand me. These tiny gals, clad in pantsuits and oversized visors in club colours, sometimes speak little English, but invariably they enhance your golfing experience. Bun made sure I had plenty of cold coconut water, she wrapped chilled towels scented with lemongrass around my neck, shielded me from the sun on the greens with an umbrella and fanned me with her “Hello Kitty” fan. As much as I love playing golf in Thailand, I must warn you that it is usually hot and humid, so you must stay cool and hydrated.  Wearing two gloves also helps with slippery grips.

Swingin’ the Blues

Just minutes after landing at the Phuket Airport, you can be teeing off at the Blue Canyon Country Club’s Canyon Course. Playing a round of golf here entails following in the footsteps of such legends as Tiger Woods, Nick Faldo and Ernie Els as many of Asia’s top tournaments have been hosted on this lush course by Japanese designer Yoshikazu Kato.

Carved into the edge of a canyon, the fairways unfold across a verdant valley dotted with freshwater lakes. Number 13, the 390-yard signature hole, is also christened “The Tiger Hole” as Mr. Woods blasted 270 yards across the canyon from the black tees to the green.

My favourite is number 14, a drop-dead gorgeous par-three that plays onto an almost-island green in the shape of Thailand from hugely elevated tees.

Blue Canyon’s Lakes Course, also by Kato, features water on all but the 17th fairway. It’s a gentler test than the Canyon Course with gigantic greens and generous fairways.

Thai Treats

Apart from a stellar golf experience, travellers to Thailand inevitably rave about the cuisine and spa scene.

In 2015, Phuket was named a “creative city of gastronomy” by UNESCO. Phuket is a city of mixed cultures, resulting in a great variety of dishes with Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Muslim, European and Indian influences.

At the Blue Elephant Restaurant and Cooking School, housed in a former governor’s mansion, our group enjoyed a multi-course tasting menu including crab salad, beef satay, green curry, deep-fried sea bass and Thailand’s favourite dessert of sticky rice steamed in coconut milk and topped with fresh mango slices.

After golf at Red Mountain, we were treated to a traditional Thai massage at Let’s Relax Spa. Unlike a Swedish massage where you lie naked on a table and are kneaded with oil, the traditional Thai massage is an entirely different experience. The two-hour series of contortions and stretching movements are patterned on the Asanas of Hatha Yoga. Your masseuse might hike your legs over your head while she presses her elbow into your hamstrings. Don’t be alarmed when she turns you over and walks down your spine and then tries to twist you into a sitting pretzel. A Thai massage is more revitalizing than relaxing but at the end you feel like you’ve had a profound body workout. Beware: it can be addictive and massages in Thailand are so cheap you can afford to get your daily “fix.”

The High Life at Amari

We stayed at the cliffhanging Amari resort in Phuket where guests are transported up and down the steep paths via shuttle or golf cart. Guests staying in the stylish Club Ocean Wing Suites have complimentary access to the Clubhouse and its infinity pool, gym and restaurant. After just one breakfast, the friendly staff knew how I liked my cappuccino and set aside a generous portion of fresh passion fruit—my favourite tropical wake-up comestibles. In the evening, we enjoyed hors d’oeuvres and creative cocktails. The Amari is ideally located near Patong Beach and an easy walk to Phuket’s party town, Patong, where the Bangla Road Night Market pulsates with Go-Go bars and “ping pong” sex shows with such menu items as whistles, hamsters and bananas. Use your imagination!

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