17 JAN 2018: Dubbed the “golf capital of the world” and voted as 2012’s Top North American Golf Destination by the International Association of Golf Tour Operators (IAGTO), the Greater Palm Springs oasis is home to more than 100 lush courses and an average of 350 days of sunshine per year. I finally checked this desert oasis off my bucket list.
Beyond those lush fairways, I discovered that Palm Springs has a unique vibe. Think Jetsons architecture, Frank Sinatra clones crooning in piano bars and a laid-back lifestyle that seduces both retirees and younger folks alike.
Back in the 1930s and ’40s Palm Springs became the playground for the Hollywood set. In those days actors were pretty much “owned” by the movie moguls and most contracts stipulated that the movie stars had to be within two hours of Hollywood. Palm Springs fit the geographical requirements. Liberace, Lucille Ball, Bob Hope, Dinah Shore and Frank Sinatra all partied hearty in the Coachella Valley. As you drive around you’ll notice all sorts of streets and landmarks named in their honour. Bob Hope was named honorary mayor.
Greater Palm Springs actually consists of nine cities (Palm Springs, Desert Hot Springs, Cathedral City, Rancho Mirage, Palm Desert, Indian Wells, La Quinta, Indio and Coachella) tucked into the folds of the San Jacinto Mountains, across the desert floor and into the foothills of Joshua Tree National Park. Although the region is surrounded by sand, rock and tumbleweed, it’s far from desert-like because most of its cities sit on top on a giant aquifer.
What’s not to like? The sun shines without fail. The ever-changing light on the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountain chains is enchanting. There’s no lack of creature comforts-from hot mineral springs to cool cuisine and funky hotels. Plus, you don’t need a movie star’s income to enjoy Palm Springs.
Where to Swing
Set among rolling greens and lush fairways with sweeping views of the towering Santa Rosa Mountains, JW Marriott Desert Springs Resort & Spa’s Palm and Valley courses beckon. Both courses, originally designed by acclaimed architect Ted Robinson, were recently renovated by his son, Ted Jr., at a cost of about three million bucks.
More than 35 acres of sparkling streams, lagoons, and waterfalls, plus spectacular mountain vistas showcase the quintessential Palm Springs golf experience. Ted Robinson, dubbed “King of the Waterscapes” lives up to his reputation on the Palms signature par-three 17th. To reach the island green, your ball must carry a series of waterfalls and boulder-lined pools that huge black swans and pink flamingos call home. To augment the challenge, the green sports three strategically placed “magnetic” bunkers. There’s so much going on here you’ll need to harness all of your powers of concentration in order to score par.
Managed by Troon Golf and owned by the City of Indian Wells, the two courses at Indian Wells Golf may be the poshest “munis” you’ll ever play. Golfweek ranks both in the Top 20 Public Courses in California.
I started on the Celebrity Course, re-opened in 2006 after a complete re-do by Clive Clark. In addition to spectacular mountain views, the course features streams, brooks and split-level lakes connected by waterfalls. Exquisite gardens frame every tee deck.
The second Players Course, by designer John Fought, is a gem with sculpted bunkers reminiscent of Alistair Mackenzie’s classics around Melbourne, Australia. Fought took advantage of the plentiful water supply, so bring lots of balls.
Another “muni,” owned by the city of La Quinta, SilverRock’s Arnold Palmer Classic Course was the former Bob Hope Classic home course from 2008 – 2011. From the tips at 7,578 yards some forced carries look so long they might require a flight plan. Water and scrub areas will collect errant shots, as will numerous deep bunkers. The greens are massive, multi-tiered and were super quick on the day we played. This course demands respect and should be strategically managed from tees that are appropriate to your skill level.
When you approach the ritzy clubhouse at Mission Hills Country Club in Rancho Mirage, you know you’ve arrived at a place of legendary fame. It is the home of the Dinah Shore Tournament Course and the site of the first major on the LPGA tour every year-ANA Inspiration, formerly known as Kraft Nabisco Championship.
Mission Hills Country Club offers a unique golf experience, with three very diverse golf courses designed by some of the game’s greatest names. Diabolical Pete Dye’s Challenge Course opened in 1988. Arnold Palmer’s contribution is most members’ favourite. Desmond Muirhead designed the Dinah Shore Tournament Course in 1970.
A bronze statue of Dinah Shore presides over the 18th green. Ms. Shore, a top golfer herself, used to reside on the first fairway. In 1988 Amy Alcott started the tradition of the winner of the now ANA Inspiration Championship by jumping into the pond beside the 18th island green. In later years, Annika Sorenstam celebrated with a cannonball and Lorena Ochoa took the plunge with her whole family.
La Quinta Resort & Club boasts no fewer than six courses. Members only can play the private Arnold Palmer, Jack Nicklaus and Tom Weiskopf tracts, while the rest of us can take a swing at the PGA West’s Greg Norman, Nicklaus Tournament or Pete Dye’s TPC Stadium.
The newest at PGA West, the only one in the Coachella Valley to be designed by “Shark” Norman, sports 102 bunkers and water on nine holes of the 7,200-yard gem that has been described a truly “Outback” experience. It was recently Audubon certified.
There may be no greater challenge in the game of golf than the PGA West TPC Stadium Golf Course, designed by Pete Dye and ranked in The 100 Greatest Courses in the US by Golf Magazine. The original home of the Skins Game, the PGA West TPC Stadium Course has been viewed by millions on TV. The 18th island green hole is known as Alcatraz. As Dye has said, “Golf is not a fair game, so why build a course fair?”
Where to Dine
Once you’ve said goodbye to yet another Titleist, remember that Palm Springs knows how to pamper and spoil your hedonistic side. At Arnold Palmer’s Restaurant in La Quinta, try some of the “King’s” favourite comfort foods, such as meatloaf and pot roast. Or cool off with a glass of his chilled Chardonnay or his signature iced tea and lemonade and savour the good life under the palms.
Frank Sinatra and Barbara Marx had their pre-wedding dinner at Melvyn’s Restaurant at the iconic Palm Springs Ingleside Inn. It’s been a celebrity hangout for years. There’s nothing hip about Melvyn’s and that’s the way his loyal clientele like it. The restaurant specializes in chateaubriand and flambéed desserts. In the evenings an accomplished pianist plays old time hits and folks take a spin around the Casablanca Lounge dance floor. Melvyn’s is vintage Palm Springs at its best.