03 JAN 2018: Rowdy Cabo San Lucas or well-behaved San Jose? The two towns act as bookends for the 20-kilometre strip of resorts, beaches and golf courses known as Los Cabos that adorn the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula.
Part of the fun is in exploring the region’s two drastically distinct personas. San José del Cabo has retained the look and vibe of an authentic Mexican town. Cobblestone streets, intimate restaurants, galleries and boutiques radiate from the central main square anchored by the Jesuit Mission, known as Parroquia San Jose, dating back to the 1730s. The historic central area has undergone a massive street renovation with new sidewalks, roads, tree plantings and fountains.
Cabo San Lucas, on the other end of the highway (called the corridor), is party central with funky bars and the slick Luxury Avenue Mall centered around the marina.
Rodrigo Esponda, director general for Los Cabos describes each town as follows: “San Jose is like the well-behaved brother where not much happens after 10 p.m. San Lucas, is the party animal where the action in the bars and discos starts late and carries on into the wee hours.”
Hollywood stars such as Bing Crosby and John Wayne, lured by the legendary sport fishing, initially put Cabos on the tourist map back in the 1950s And while fishing still draws thousands annually to this land of striking contrasts where desert and mountains collide with the Sea of Cortez, there’s plenty more to do.
While it’s true that Los Cabos isn’t the bargain capital of Mexico, it’s easy to find ways to pinch pesos so you can indulge in the odd well-deserved splurge. Consider these options.
THE “YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE” SPLURGE LIST
One&Only Palmilla: second to none
In all my travels, I’ve yet to find an establishment that rivals the One&Only Palmilla for spoiling its guests. The resort has garnered a lengthy list of travel awards so I’m obviously not alone in my infatuation of the place.
It starts with the salutation you’ll receive from every staff member-from waiters to gardeners. They bow slightly and place their right hand over their heart. The resort’s general manager borrowed this endearing gesture (meaning that the hospitality is from the heart) from the Otomi hill tribes that live in the state of Jalisco.
At the outdoor reception lounge, you’ll be given a mango and coconut popsicle and golf-carted to your casa, all of which overlook the sea. Your personal butler will unpack your clothes, bring cocktail snacks in the afternoon, set out breakfast on your terrace and light your choice of aromatherapy candle in the evening. Would you like your shirt pressed? It shall be done.
My spacious Miramar casa overlooked Turtle Beach. On the dining table I found a bowl of fruit, snacks and a “chocolate tree.” Amenities include an Illy espresso machine, tequila with limes and spicy almonds. In the bedroom you may choose from pillow, sheet and aromatherapy menus. Such attention to detail is what sets One&Only Palmilla apart.
Down by the freeform pool, guests will be offered triangle-shaped pillows to place under their knees and terrycloth neck rests. Your pool butler will also bring ice buckets filled with bottled water, spritz sprays and an assortment of sunscreens. During winter months you will probably see whales in the blue Sea of Cortez. Celebrate the occasion with one of the resort’s signature ginger Margaritas. www.oneandonlyresorts.com
Whale of a Tale
Go Whale Watching with Cabo Expeditions. From December to April seven different kinds of whales, including grays and killer orcas come to these waters to feed and give birth before heading back up to Alaska. Ask for Captain José, otherwise known as the “whale whisperer” due to his uncanny ability for finding the great leviathans. On my trip, he brought the Zodiac so close to a mother and her two babies we could smell their breath (not so fresh) and got soaked by their tail splashes.
Viva La Revolucion
At La Revolucion the passionate mixologists, under the guidance of Osvaldo Vazquez, will concoct just the right cocktail to go with your meal. Yes, they also sell wine but they encourage the cocktail pairings. I found that the Mezcal-based La Revolucion spiked with chile poblano liqueur, sesame oil and citrus juices was perfecto with my tuna tiradito. I was somewhat taken aback when the waiter brought to my table a two-gallon jar containing a clear liquid and a coiled rattlesnake. It was a spirit called sotol made from a cactus that grows in the state of Chihuahua. The locals add a dash of snake venom to give it bite. Trust me, you’ll need a few cocktails under your belt to muster enough courage to sample the sotol. www.larevolucioncomedor.com
Just your Cup of Tequila
Dine al fresco in the romantic courtyard at Tequila Restaurante, which lives up to its name with a lengthy list of the finer brands of Mexico’s national drink. The house specialty is jumbo shrimp smothered in (you guessed it) tequila, lime, butter and garlic. Ask co-owner Enrique Silva about tours to his organic farm and cooking school, Huerta Los Tamarindos, just outside of San Jose.
THE “CHEAP THRILLS” LIST
Location, Location
Casa Natalia is a chic boutique hotel sitting smack dab in the centre of San Jose’s historic district. From the doorway you can see the former Jesuit Mission across the zocalo. Open your windows and the sound of gushing water from a pool and waterfall will lull you to sleep. Should you wish to take a siesta, sprawl out in one of the hammocks hanging over a river of water. The hotel’s Mi Cocina restaurant just added the Baja oyster bar. The food, service and ambiance are terrific. www.casanatalia.com
Lands End
Forget the pricey sunset cruise. Instead, take a glass bottom boat tour for about $10 per person per hour from the Cabos San Lucas Marina. You’ll cruise past Lover’s Beach, basking sea lions and El Arche, the remarkable rock formation that has become the iconic landmark of Cabos. You might want to make a day of it by taking a picnic and snorkeling gear and arranging for your captain to pick you up at a designated time.
Pub Crawl
Hit Cabo San Lucas’ local watering holes at Happy Hour. Sample a Cabo Waborita at Cabo Wabo and try to avoid being strung upside down at the Giggling Marlin where the motto is, “If our food, drinks and service are not up to your standards…please lower your standards.”
Java Jolt
Best coffee house in San Jose is Dona Nena inside the Plaza Don Carlos, just south of the main plaza. In the same building the Panaderia serves delicious smoothies, sandwiches and pastries.
Sexy Souvenir
Buy a bottle of liquor made from a local shrub called Damiana. It comes in a bottle shaped like a voluptuous woman’s torso and reputed to have aphrodisiac powers.
Go Artsy
Thursday night in San José is Art Walk from November to June. Studios and galleries around Alvaro Obregon stay open until 9 p.m. They encourage guests to browse and buy by handing out free drinks and snacks.
Taco Time
Drop into La Lupita Taco & Mezcal in San Jose for a tasty variety of tacos and Mexican spirits. You can eat inside or out on the patio. The décor is Mexican shabby chic, the waiters are friendly and the food is cheap and authentic. Along with tacos they serve great tortilla soup and fresh salads.