18 DEC 2017: After the festivities are done this Christmas, I can think of nothing better than relaxing by a roaring fire with a book and a cognac in hand. Cognac, a prestigious French brandy, comes the region surrounding the medieval city of Cognac. Over the years I’ve seen the area develop from a sleepy hollow into a tourism destination offering much to the visitor. There’s even more to come in 2018.
Cognac is on the banks of the Charente river downstream of Angouleme about 160 kilometres north of Bordeaux. It first gained prominence as a centre of salt commerce in the Middle Ages. From the 17th century onwards it was known as a supplier of superior brandy. Getting to the region is easily done: the high-speed TGV train from Paris to Angouleme takes two and a half hours. Then it’s a short 45-minute hop via a regional train or taxi to Cognac.
The city is charming. The medieval quarter houses buildings from the 15th to 18th centuries on narrow cobbled streets. Elegant renaissance facades are dotted about and King Frances I was born in the town’s castle in 1494. A statue of him on horseback centres the main square.
Around the Cognac warehouses the air is permeated by the heavenly scent of spirits evaporating. It’s called the angels’ share. Every year about three percent of the liquid gold that slumbers in oak barrels escapes into the air. It’s the equivalent I’ve heard of 23 million bottles of cognac annually. Evidence of the thirst of angels is seen by the black that licks upward around the windowsills outside the cellars. The buildings look like the devil has set them on fire. The earthly reality is that a black fungus lives off cognac vapours.
South of the town limits lie the most highly regarded districts for growing the grapes to make cognac, namely the Grande Champagne and the Petite Champagne. The chalky contoured hills and calcareous soils in these crus are best for the cultivation of ugni blanc, the grape that makes 98 percent of all cognac today. The other important cru is Borderies, whose brandies often have a nutty taste and flowery aromas. The latter area is the key to Martell Cognac’s distinctive style. (Each cognac house has its own style which cognoscenti savour.)
The grapes are made into wine and then distilled twice in copper-pot stills. Master distillers put their stamp on the spirit by cutting the “heads” and the “tails” of the distillate at exact points to optimize flavours while cutting out undesirable odours. Fresh from the stills, the grape spirit tends to be delicately floral. Oak from French forests, toasted by fire when the barrels are made, add their aromas of vanilla, brioche and cinnamon. Then slow oxidation in these barriques puts the final touches of mushroom, Roquefort cheese and leathery/nutty “rancio” to the mix.
My visit this fall was to see the magnificent new visitor centre that Martell Cognac was just completing. Martell, founded by Jean Martell in 1715 under the reign of Louis XIV, is now the oldest of the great cognac Houses. (Of the approximately 200 cognac producers, four dominate in sales, namely Martell, Rémy Martin, Hennessy and Courvoisier.) To celebrate its recent 300th year anniversary, Martell has ploughed millions into creating a cognac experience that is sure to wow all visitors.
It’s impressive in all aspects. For history lovers, there is the Jean Martell house, set up with furniture, paintings and knickknacks from the 1700’s to transport people back to the time that the founder lived, recreating what his office would have looked like. Vineyard equipment from the era is on display and in the second story of the building are well preserved archives with 300 years of documents about cognac and the Martell family.
Those who want to delve into how cognac is made will find an excellent tour where vineyards are recreated indoors to show the four different types of soil in the area and the different stages of vine growth throughout the year. There a really neat presentation of the whole distillation process, a display of bottles and labels through the centuries, lots of ancient equipment and much more. The piece de resistance is the Chai Jean Martell, a cellar where cognacs from 1802, 1848, 1875 and on are stored.
Next year, Martell will have their rooftop open for drinks with a panoramic view of the city. The company offers several levels of tours: a simple half hour tasting, a 90-minute tour and taste, a two-hour art of the cocktail experience, a two-hour tour ending in the Creation Cellar where guests are invited to bottle one of the Martell cognacs and one in which guests go home with a personalised bottle of Réserve Borderies. www.martell.com Email: visites@martell.com
Of course, those who can’t make the visit, can find Martell for sale in 160 countries including Canada. Martell VS priced at around $58 is a smooth, fruity spirit that’s great in cocktails. In 1831, Frédéric Martell the great grandson of the founder crafted Martell VSOP, a rich blend of 140 different eau-de-vie with tastes of dried fruits, sultana raisons and caramel. Martell Swift Blue is a new product innovation: 100% VSOP cognac finished in Kentucky bourbon casks. The pricy but delicious Martell Cordon Bleu Cognac ($240) which has some rare old cognacs in its blend, is the one I love in a snifter by the fire.
Good cheer to all this holiday season.