CLIFFHANGING GOLF, BAJA CUISINE AND BUTLER SERVICE IN LOS CABOS

The towns of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo act as bookends for the 33-kilometre corridor of hotels and golf courses known as Los Cabos on Mexico’s southern tip of the Baja Peninsula. Hollywood stars such as Bing Crosby and John Wayne, lured by the legendary sport fishing, initially put Los Cabos (nicknamed Cabo) on the tourist map back in the 1950s.

And while fishing still draws avid anglers to what’s called “marlin alley,” Los Cabos has also become one of the world’s stellar golf destinations.

Arguably, the most spectacular new course is Quivira. I was there when Jack Nicklaus cut the ribbon in December, 2014 and officially opened his epic, long-awaited layout, ten minutes from downtown Cabo San Lucas.

Nicklaus is a prolific architect. To date, he has been involved in the design of 290 courses open for play worldwide (his firm has built another 90). Quivira is Nicklaus Design’s 23rd in Mexico.

Nicklaus recalls his early days in Cabo: “I used to come here in the ‘60s with a tee shirt, swimming suit, a pair of sandals and 20 bucks and stay for a week. Then all of a sudden, we started doing golf down here and it just exploded—the real estate values, the golf courses and the developments. My friends say I’m the guy who ruined Cabo. But what we really did was introduce the game of golf to Cabo.”

Quivira may be the most daring, eclectic course Nicklaus has ever built. Certainly it has the fewest bunkers and the smallest green (number 13) of any course on his resume. The heart-stopping front nine is par 34; the equally dramatic back nine is par 38—another departure from the usual. Quivira was recently voted to Golf Digest’s roster of the “World’s 100 Greatest Golf Courses.”

With a view of the sea from every hole, Quivira has more oceanfront exposure than any other course in Los Cabos. All 18 fairways feature panoramic views of the Pacific. From December to March you are likely to spot whales leaping in the wild blue yonder. Because the terrain is so dramatic, the course appears tough, but Nicklaus deliberately designed it to be user-friendly and pleasurable for the higher handicapper, yet still challenging from the tips for the pros. The track starts at sea level, scales cliffs more than 275 feet (84 metres) above the Pacific, spans canyons and arroyos, meanders through dunes and desert, and returns to the sea at the finish.

There’s never a dull moment at Quivira. For example, the ten-minute drive to the fifth follows a switchback route up the side of a mountain. The fairway, slanted below a dune on the right, traces the edge of sheer granite cliffs to the left as it tumbles downhill to a transition zone before dropping to a rock-walled, cliff-hanging green 106 feet (32 metres) below the tee.

When asked to predict how Quivira will impact his legacy, Nicklaus says, “I think some people will say it’s the most spectacular and best golf course they have ever seen and others will say, ‘You have got to be kidding.’ I don’t think there will be a lot of middle ground.” If you look at the game of golf as having a fun experience, and playing in an exciting and beautiful place, you will absolutely love it. From start to finish, I’d say Quivira has as much pace, variety and spectacular beauty as any course I’ve ever designed.”

I can’t argue with you, Jack.

The All-Inclusive Golf Experience
In order to play Quivira you must be a resident or guest of one of the Pueblo Bonito Oceanfront Resorts and Spas in Los Cabos: the adults-only Pueblo Bonito Pacifica and Towers of Pacifica; the family-friendly Pueblo Bonito Sunset (all share property with Quivira); Pueblo Bonito Rose or Pueblo Bonito Los Cabos (both located on El Médano beach). Pacifica was recently named a Conde Nast Traveler’s 2019 Readers’ Choice Award recipient. Stay and play packages are available.

For residents and guests alike, a golf day at Quivira Golf Club starts with a complimentary shuttle service to the club from the Pueblo Bonito resorts and communities. Warm up on the double-sided range set directly on the beach.

After the first four holes, golfers will experience the “greatest drive in golf” as they manoeuvre their carts to the first comfort station perched 200 feet above the ocean, where complementary snacks and drinks are offered. Perhaps a breakfast burrito and a Bloody Margarita?

The Oasis, which serves as a halfway house for golfers transiting from the 8th and 11th holes, serves inventive Baja cuisine. A deluxe bar features blanco, reposado and anejo tequilas. Players may refresh themselves again at the 16th tee, which sits high above the course and marks the layout’s return to home. All food and drinks are included in your round.

The Butler did it
Pueblo Bonito Pacifica Towers, the newest addition to the all-inclusive resort neighbouring Quivira golf course, offers 24-hour British butler service.

My butler, Leopoldo, e-mailed a Guest Preference Form to me a few days before my arrival, introducing himself and asking about my arrival and departure times, snack preferences (sweet, salty, healthy), selections from the pillow and soap menus and suggesting dinner reservations at the resort’s various restaurants.

Escorting me to my room, overlooking the pool and ocean, Leopoldo and I exchanged mobile numbers and he invited me to text or call him with any requests. Would I like my bag unpacked? My linen shirt pressed? Could he bring me anything to drink? No, that bottle of bubbly chilling in the ice bucket will do nicely, thanks.

Some examples of what the butlers can and have done: Etch a love note in the sand to your partner; take you on a tour of Cabo San Lucas; trace a wallet forgotten in the back of a cab from a guest who had too many Margaritas. Leopoldo personally escorted me to Cabo San Lucas for a shopping spree.

Butler service is just the “tip of the iceberg” when it comes to pampering and indulging at Pueblo Bonito Pacifica Towers. Where to eat? You’ll be spoiled by choice.

The resort’s newest Peninsula restaurant has a club lounge on the third floor where Tower guests may enjoy cocktails, snacks and breakfast while sitting out on the whale-watching terrace with supplied binoculars.

Hook & Cook is an interactive culinary experience with chef Luis Gonzalez. Guests and chef cast their fishing poles into the sea from the shoreline. Chef then demonstrates how to turn the “catch of the day” into an extravaganza of ceviches. His signature ceviche bar includes an array of seafood with house-made add-ons such as smoked salsas, beet ink, infused oils and emulsions.

Want to become a Mexican mixologist? Led by the resort’s veteran bartenders, guests shake and stir their own creative cocktails using premium spirits and local ingredients.

At the neighbouring Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach Golf & Spa Resort, The Food Hall Market is a foodie’s fantasy come true. Inspired by gourmet emporiums such as Harrods in London, The Market includes a 1950s Diner, Asian specialties, coffee station, deluxe cocktail bar, chocolate shop, French crêperie, deli, Italian pizzas and pastas, Mexican favourites, a wellness bar with nutritious shakes and juices, gelato scoops and a sports bar. All but the chocolate shop are included in your all-inclusive package.

Much More than Golf
Golfers and non-swingers alike enjoy myriad activities at Pueblo Bonito Pacifica. The Armonia Spa offers a complete menu of rejuvenating treatments. The Quirogolf massage uses golf balls to help release trigger points and roll out sore muscles.

Feeling energetic? Enjoy daily activities ranging from beach yoga and dance lessons to wine tasting seminars and tequila tastings. Or chill out on a beach bed and let the waves lull you into a siesta.

A Tale of Two Towns
When it’s finally time to tear yourself away from the resort, you’ll want to explore Los Cabos and the region’s two dramatically distinct personas. San José del Cabo has retained the look and vibe of an authentic Mexican town. Cobblestone streets, intimate restaurants and boutiques radiate from the central main square and mission church. The historic central area has undergone a massive street renovation with new sidewalks, roads, tree plantings and fountains.

Cabo San Lucas, on the other end of the highway (called the corridor), is party central with funky bars and the slick Luxury Avenue Mall near the marina.

Happy hour is the best time to hit the local watering holes around the marina. Sample a Cabo Waborita and dance ‘til the wee hours at Cabo Wabo, or try to avoid being strung upside down at the Giggling Marlin where the motto is, “If our food, drinks and service are not up to your standards…please lower your standards.”

From December to March seven different kinds of whales, including grays and killer orcas come to these waters to feed and give birth before heading back up to Alaska. Take a Zodiac Whale Watching Adventure with Cabo Expeditions. On my trip, the captain brought the Zodiac so close to a mother and her two babies we could smell their breaths. The interaction between the mom and her young was so fascinating, we didn’t mind getting drenched by their tail splashes.

There’s no place on earth quite like Los Cabos where craggy mountains, desert landscapes, the Sea of Cortez and Pacific Ocean all meet. It’s no wonder that Cabos claimed the honour of “Mexico’s Leading Destination” at the 2019 World Travel Awards.