Earlier this year four of us – old friends (in both senses!) – arrived in Bocas del Toro, a group of islands in the Caribbean Sea off the far western shores of Panama. We had been tossing around the idea of a winter getaway for several weeks but found a decision difficult. City or somewhere quiet? Beach or countryside? Hotel or self-catered? We each had different ideas, but had agreed that it should be a destination none of us had visited before. Then came an inspired suggestion … Panama! A ‘first’ for each of us. And we could spend a relaxing week in the tropical islands of Bocas and a busy week in Panama City. All our boxes were ticked!
Some Covid restrictions were still in place but efficiently navigated both before and after our direct flight from Toronto to Panama City’s Tocumen international Airport. Upon arrival we travelled across town by taxi to the Wyndham Hotel, close to the domestic Albrook Gilbert Airport, in order to be ready for our flight to Bocas del Toro the next morning. (This hotel is part of a massive shopping mall, so if you discover you’ve forgotten your swim gear, for example, no worries! You have time for a little retail therapy!)
Bocas del Toro was not only to be the relaxing section of our trip, but also our self-catering week. On line we had booked one of many off-grid ‘over the water, stilt houses’ on offer in this part of the world. It was an eight-minute boat journey from town and we had our own friendly boatman at our disposal every day.
We were first met at the airport by a helpful rental agent who shared lunch with us in town before taking us to one of several large supermarkets for food and wine supplies. Then he called for our boat and we were off to our isolated home, twixt mangroves and ocean. What a thrill it all was!
None of us had been anywhere like this before. With no road access there was simply nowhere to go until our boatman arrived at an arranged time each day to take us into Bocas Town. The hours around these excursions would be pure relaxation with some gentle water activities, shared cooking of the ‘at-home’ meals and lots of conversation and cocktails on our patio watching the sunset.
On our visits to town we were easily able to visit other islands and enjoy lunches in a variety of waterside restaurants. Boatmen wait on their rickety docks off the main street to ferry people to their destinations. Visitors travel to other islands for beachside restaurants, for walks and hikes, to discover deserted beaches or just to interact with the friendly locals.
On the island of Bastimentos we were surprised to find the locals speaking pidgin English, or ‘Guari-guari’ we were sternly told. Their ancestors had settled here from other English-speaking Caribbean islands after being employed in the building of the Panama Canal.
The Leaf Eaters’ Cafe just across the bay, busy with watercraft, was a lively lunchtime spot that we enjoyed. But our favourite lunch spot turned out to be The Oasis on Bluff Beach, a six-room boutique hotel with an excellent patio restaurant, reached by taxi or shared mini-bus (always fun!) down a bumpy, ocean side trail. The Oasis overlooks a wild beach much loved by surfers where friendly Oasis staff serve drinks and lunch. Or, one can enjoy the patio restaurant with its view of the ocean, a pretty garden with many birds and the encroaching jungle with its resident sloth. Owners Wendy and Simon have obviously made their dream come true running this property, and it will be our choice for a stay if we go to Bocas again. It would be like visiting old friends.
All too soon it was time for a week of city life. We settled into the Colonial Hotel in the Panama City’s Old Town – Casco Viejo – whence we could wander the fascinating streets discovering shops, bars and restaurants. The city has been, and still is, undergoing a renaissance, with renovations to old buildings creating luxurious hotels, a wide variety of stylish restaurants and roof-top bars. All our meals were memorable. Our concierge at the Colonial was a mine of information, not only helping us find all we required in town, but also in suggesting a four-hour tour in one of the hotel’s limos.
This enabled us to glimpse the vast modern section of town, to have a quick lunch beside boats in a marina, to practise our Spanish with our driver and – most important of all – to visit the fascinating Miraflores locks at the entrance/exit of the Panama Canal. The large observation facility places visitors almost within reach of the tankers and cruise ships as they glide by.
(We had hoped to take a day trip on the canal itself, but these are only available on week-ends. So, if you wish to include such a trip – plan your dates accordingly. A day-long trip travels the length of the canal, from Caribbean Sea to Pacific Ocean, or a shorter trip at least gives participants the exciting experience of traversing some locks. Bookings can be made on line.).
And before you even glimpse the famous Canal, spend a few hours in the Panama Canal Museum in the heart of the Old Town. It is fascinating and throws much light not only on the history of the Canal but also on the evolution of the country and its inhabitants today. So many of this country’s residents are descendants of the thousands of professionals and workers who came here over 100 years ago to work on this engineering marvel. They came from dozens of different countries and many remained … creating the peaceful and welcoming ‘melting pot’ of peoples that inhabit Panama today.