01 AUG 2019: Every time we mentioned to Croatians that we were taking the train from Split to Zagreb we were met with eyes filled with a combo of horror and pity. “No don’t take the train,” they would say emphatically. It was a six to eight hour journey depending upon the train, but how bad could it be I wondered.
I checked online and Croatian Railways showed photos of modern, inter-city Bombardier tilting trains with air conditioning and snack cars. Upgraded tracks were said to speed up parts of the rail line originally constructed 1913-1925. The route which goes from coastal Croatia through the Velebit Mountains and continental Croatia looked scenic. So, I bought my husband and me first class tickets and paid extra for reserve seats.
Our taxi driver taking us to the Split train station gave us that look. “I wouldn’t take the train,” he said. When I found out he last took a Croatian train about 20 years ago my fears calmed. But not for long. We pulled up to a humble concrete building in fading paint tucked behind a line of souvenir stalls.
It was hot and dirty with not enough seats for the waiting passengers. Announcements were in Croatian only, so when our train didn’t show up on time, I checked at the ticket wicket. “Train coming late,” I was told. Then a shrug to indicate who knows when. My spouse and I instantly made the wise decision to buy water and provisions from the stalls outside.
Eventually an old train engine car arrived pulling two mud smeared second class passenger cars. I went to the lady behind the wicket. “There’s no first class compartment on that train to Zagreb,” I said showing her our reserved first class tickets and asking for a refund. “All the same,” she replied, “No refund.”
We trudged into the train so filthy you couldn’t see out of the windows but then they were all open on top – the old fashioned way of heat control. The less said about the non-functioning toilets, the better. And, of course, no food or drink to be had. We unpacked our own provisions and settled in for a long, hot journey as black rail dust, flying insects and air born seeds flowed through our compartment. It was very scenic.
I had arranged for our Hotel Esplanade to greet us at the train station in Zagreb. As we alighted, sweat soaked and grimy, it seemed almost comical to be met by a bell captain in a spotless uniform pushing a brass luggage trolley. At the front desk we apologized for our condition and explained we’d taken the train. The clerk laughed. He’d had the same experience of booking first class, getting a very poor second and no refund despite his letters of complaint. “Normal,” he said, explaining a state monopoly and possible corruption or just inertia and incompetence.
From that point on our travel experience took a dramatic turn for the better. Hotel Esplanade built in 1925 was an Art Nouveau beauty with modern comforts and expertly trained staff. They upgraded us to a lovely suite and stocked it with complimentary wine, fruits, chocolates and savoury snacks. We were now in good hands. https://www.esplanade.hr/
The hotel, in the heart of Zagreb, is within easy walking distance to the best of Croatia’s capital and largest city. Almost all of the main sites and cultural venues are in the city centre. The city grew out of two medieval settlements that flourished for centuries on neighbouring hills.
Our first walk took us by the lovely green spaces of King Tomislav square with its park dominated by a statue of King Tomislav, Strossmayer square and park by the Croatian Academy of Science and Art and Zrinjevac where we heard singing from the music pavilion in the centre of the park. Then we reached Zagreb’s main square, Ban Jelačić Square, dominated by a statue of the 19th-century provincial governor of Croatia, Count Josip Jelačić von Bužim. (The statue was removed by Tito in 1947 but restored in 1990.)
From there we started the uphill climbs stopping first at Dolac, Zagreb’s centuries old colourful central marketplace. Today there is an open-air section and a covered area on two levels. It’s a daily meeting place for the city’s top chefs and stocked full of the best from all regions of the country. Fish from the coast, lamb and cheese from the islands, truffles from Istria and oysters from the Bay of Ston for example. There are regional olive oils, swiss chard (a favourite vegetable in Croatia), wild mushrooms and wild greens.
We wandered further up cobblestone streets lined with bars and restaurants offering open air seating to the imposing, medieval-style, St Mark’s church. Tucked between it and the National Museum and the Museum of the City of Zagreb was Konoba Didov San (means Grandpa’s Dream), a restaurant that came highly recommended by our hotel.
It was beyond charming and authentic. We feasted on octopus salad, frog legs grilled with Dalmatian prosciutto, fried liver and onions, kajmak (a type of soft cheese) with wonderful bread, and fresh greens all washed down with delicious Croatian Pošip white wine. The table beside us was celebrating a baptism and sent us some of their desserts to try as a friendly gesture. It was a marvelous Croatian meal experience. http://konoba-didovsan.com/english
Back at the hotel, we had arranged for dinner in their fabled Zinfandel restaurant under Chef Ana Grgić. Winner of the Gault & Millau guide Great Chef of Tomorrow 2018 award, Chef Grgić is known for her seasonal dishes and classics such as sea bass baked in sea salt, beef tartar and pasta with truffles. is known for her seasonal dishes and classics such as sea bass baked in sea salt, beef tartar and pasta with truffles. The flambé dishes cooked table side are also famous and I was most delighted with my red shrimp flambéed in Pernod.
Štrukli Esplanade, a house special, is a traditional handmade pastry that oozes oven-baked fresh cottage cheese topped with cream. I had this the next day for breakfast. A traditional specialty from Croatian Zagorje (the Region North of Zagreb, on the other side of the Medvednica mountain), it was first prepared at the hotel in 1951 and has stayed on the menu ever since. It’s not diet friendly, but it is so delicious.
Zagreb and Esplanade won our hearts and our train journey was relegated to no more than an amusing anecdote to tell our friends.