07 MAR 2019: Late country crooner Glen Campbell remembered “sea winds blowing… sea waves crashing… [and] seabirds flying in the sun,” in his 1969 chart topper “Galveston,” which a Country Music Television poll rated the No. 8 best country song of all time and which to this day remains one of the city-island’s best advertisements.
Galveston is for the birds. Literally. The Texas destination, perched on the Gulf of Mexico coast just south of Houston, is home to dozens of species, and many more visit while following a central migratory route over the region, stopping to take advantage of the island’s rich variety of habitats – beaches, wetlands, grasslands, woods, ponds, and bays. As such, many birdwatchers flock there each year for a chance to glimpse the likes of a roseate spoonbill, sandhill crane or rare reddish egret, the official bird of Galveston.
But for all this bounty of fine feathered friends, rest assured that there’s plenty to do in Galveston for those who don’t solely have birds on the brain. “We always try to think of the SOBs – the spouses of birders,” laughs Julie Ann Brown of the Galveston Nature Tourism Council. “We send them to the railroad museum or something.”
Visitors also come for the beaches, amusement arcades and parks, Victorian architecture and mild winter weather.
Travel Industry Today recently found itself on the ground in Galveston, and we offer the following list of key things to know and places to go when visiting this unique Texas city/Gulf of Mexico island.
History
The destination is mainly known for its sun, sand and sea culture these days, but “people will be surprised at Galveston’s history,” says tourism official Mary Beth Bassett. Indeed, before nearly being destroyed by a hurricane in 1900, Galveston was the biggest city in Texas and earned such sobriquets as “Wall Street of the Southwest” and “Ellis Island of the West” for its port-generated wealth and the number of immigrants that entered the US there. After the Great Storm, the city embraced gambling and bootlegging and largely languished until a major urban revival in the 1980s intensified efforts to turn the city and island into a mainstream tourism destination.
Island Life & Beaches
Galveston is both a city and barrier island, connected to the mainland via a 50-km causeway, prompting residents to feel that they somewhat apart from the rest of Texas. At the same time, there are close to 50 km of beaches suited to different tastes: family-friendly, partying, seclusion… Meanwhile, the city’s 16-km beach wall – believed to be the longest continuous sidewalk in the US – is a haven for strollers, hikers and bikers. Of course, being a port on the Gulf of Mexico presents a myriad of opportunities for watersports, fishing, and boat tours that may even often come across the area’s playful dolphins.
They Don’t Like Ike
The downside of being an island in the Gulf of Mexico means sometimes being a target for hurricanes, and two big ones have lasting legacies. The Great Storm of 1900 is still considered the greatest disaster in US history, having killed 6,000 people (one-sixth of the population), destroyed a third of its buildings and ultimately entirely changing the fortunes of the city. And in 2008, Hurricane Ike produced a five-metre storm surge that flooded 75 percent of the island causing massive damage. Fortunately, the lasting effects of the most recent storm are few and the event is remembered mainly through ubiquitous high-water markings on buildings and street corners, and the interesting, sometimes harrowing stories locals tell.
Sculpture Trail
One positive legacy of Ike is the city’s sculpture trail. Not surprisingly, the hurricane significantly damaged Galveston’s tree canopy, but to make the best of a bad situation, local artists got work turning the stumps of many of the dead Oak trees into elaborate sculptures with whimsical designs of people and animals, and singular oddities like a guitar and the Tin Man & Toto, even a fire hydrant in front of the fire station. Mostly tucked into gardens and the front yards of private homes in the historical district, they can be viewed by the public and make a great touring trail.
Historic Downtown
Boasting one of the largest collections of well-preserved Victorian architecture in the US, Galveston exudes a southern charm similar to Charleston and Savannah throughout its four nationally recognized historic districts, which are home to colourful historic homes, mansions and buildings, as well as unique boutique shops, coastal-inspired art galleries, gift shops and restaurants. During the first two weekends in May, the Galveston Historical Foundation hosts its annual Galveston Historic Homes Tour, where private home owners open their doors to the public for tours. A popular stop is Bishop’s Palace, an 1892 mansion cited by the American Institute of Architects as one of America’s 100 most important buildings.
Museums
From pirates to railroads and Texas history to the modern oil industry, Galveston has no shortage of museums to motivate the mind. Among the most popular are:
- Texas Seaport Museum/Tall Ship Elissa: Housed in the Seaport Museum at Pier 21, visitors can explore the restored tall ship Elissa, which dates to 1877 and is considered an American treasure. The museum tells the story of Galveston’s legacy of seaborne commerce and immigration, the latter seeing an estimated 300,000 people enter the US there between 1846 and 1948.
- Ocean Offshore Oil Drilling Rig and Museum: Life on an oil rig comes alive on this retired rig, which has been converted into a museum devoted to the history of the oil industry in Texas. And visitors don’t have to leave shore to visit.
- Bryan Museum: Showcasing one of the world’s largest collections of historical artifacts, documents and artwork relating to the American West, including 70,000 rare items spanning more than 12,000 years, the museum also presents a splendid setting in refurbished former landmark building in the heart of the historical district.
- Galveston Railroad Museum: Located in the former Santa Fe Union Station, the museum recalls the golden age of railroad through self-guided tours of 40 railroad cars from the 19th and 20th centuries and a room-size scale model railroad.
Moody Gardens
Moody Garden’s is the city’s prime tourist destination for families, with a variety of attractions ranging from a new US$37-million aquarium to live tropical rainforest exhibit and Discovery Museum, all in unique 10-storey pyramid buildings that qualify as city landmarks. The complex also features 3-D and 4-D theatres, golf course, water park, ropes course and zip line, historic paddlewheel boat and a hotel. In the Rainforest Pyramid, visitors will find free-roaming rainforest animals, tropical plants and hundreds of endangered species.
Pleasure Pier
Not to be confused with Pier 21, the Galveston Island Historic Pleasure Pier stands out at Seawall Boulevard and 25th Street across from the Hotel Galvez, jutting out over the Gulf of Mexico as the most iconic symbol of Galveston, despite having only opened in 2012. The amusement park, which recalls a pleasure pier that was built in the same location during the 1940s, has 16 rides, midway games, shops, live music and entertainment, and a Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. restaurant. (Note: The Pier is open during the summer and on weekends in shoulder seasons).
Eco & Outdoors
“The best side of Galveston is the natural side,” says Julie Anne Brown, who adds, “We get pretty excited about birds.” But beyond birds – of which more than 500 species call Galveston home either permanently or temporarily during the Spring migration (mid to late April) – there are beaches, state parks and plenty of trails to help facilitate outdoor activities such as walking, hiking, biking, kayaking, paddle boarding, horseback riding, flower and wildlife viewing, and much more. Coastal, woodland and urban environments give different landscapes for activities, all just minutes apart. Galveston State Park, in particular, is notable amongst the area’s many sanctuaries, refuges, and preserves.
Events
Galveston is a “quirky, welcoming beach town with some cool and special events,” says the CVB’s Bassett, citing Mardi Gras (third largest in the US), and Dickens on the Strand (first week of December) as being highlights. And each Spring, FeatherFest is a four-day festival for birders and nature photographers featuring tours, workshops and family-friendly events. Add restaurant week; wine, beer, shrimp and Greek fests; and Bands on the Sand, amongst others, and visitors will find no shortage of unique events to colour any visit. (www.Galveston.com/calendarofevents)
Food
Gulf seafood, southern and Texas staples and the legacy of the city’s multi-cultural past provide a smorgasbord of dining options. Here a few taste-tested and recommended by TIT:
- Gaido’s Seafood Restaurant: An island tradition for more than 100 years, elegant Gaido’s specializes in Gulf Coast seafood along with its homemade sauces, salad dressings and desserts. With views of the beach, the venue is also known for serving the best pecan pie not only in town, but in Texas, as rated by Texas monthly. They’ll even ship one home for you.
- BLVD Seafood: Don’t let the persona of a casual diner on Seawall Boulevard fool you, chef Chris Lopez is helping define Galveston’s food scene with creative takes on seafood, including signature dishes such as the Gulf Coast Flat Fish Stack, as well as quality steaks, a well-rounded wine list, cocktail menu and seasonal dessert menu – all made in-house.
- Sunflower Bakery & Café: Located in the heart of Galveston’s East End Historical District, and paired with a boutique knickknack shop, the charming family-owned restaurant and bakery serves up southern comfort food, from delicious breads and pastries made from scratch to fresh seafood and a variety of dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
- Olympia Grill Pier 21: Acclaimed as one of the best Greek restaurants in the area, the venue also boasts a dockside patio and a great view of Galveston’s harbour. The restaurant is known for its steamed clams, Texas oysters, whole flounder and other specialties.
- Rudy & Paco: Located next the historic opera house, Rudy & Paco is a Galveston institution, featuring grilled seafood and steak with a South and Central American twist, and has been named one of the Top 100 Best Restaurants in America by OpenTable users for several years. Spend some time checking out the wall of fame, which includes photos of celebrity patrons including Canada’s Property Brothers. A new venue, Vargas by Paco, has recently opened across the street.
- Gumbo Diner: Serving up Southern breakfast staples, chicken & waffles, tasty burgers and some of the best Texas gulf fried shrimp on the coast, the Gumbo Diner is a hot spot for both locals and visitors.
- The Rooftop Bar: For drinks, The Rooftop Bar at the Tremont House offers a sophisticated, modern lounge atmosphere located four stories above street level. It’s the only rooftop bar in Galveston and presents a spectacular view of Galveston’s historic downtown and harbour.
Hotel
Now a Wyndham Grand Hotel, the historic Hotel Galvez & Spa is a city landmark, having welcomed guests for over 100 years, including president Franklin D. Roosevelt, who used the building as a temporary White House. Situated directly across from the beach, the “Queen of the Gulf” was built in 1911 after the Great Storm and, though modernized, still retains the elegant décor and luxurious service of the era. Visitors can also learn about the hotel, and area history, via audio tour in the history hall. Watch out for room 501 – it’s said to be haunted.
Canadian Connections
Canadians have easy, direct access from Canada to Houston via non-stop flights to Toronto, Calgary, Montreal, Vancouver and Edmonton, prompting many snowbirds – or “Winter Texans” – to take advantage of the mild winter and year-round golf. Texas Tourism Canadian rep Rosalyn Hunter says thousands of Canadians travel to south Texas in search of “a new environment” from traditional haunts in Florida and are further eager to take the “causeway cure” on Galveston island, where the wild, empty beaches in winter contrast with the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
“And it’s so close to Houston, an amazing city, just up the road,” she says.
Houston
Cosmopolitan Houston is about an hour away from Galveston and serves the dual purpose of gateway or add-on to a visit. Half way between the two is Space Center Houston, the NASA visitor centre for America’s space program and a must-see attraction.
Cruise Port
Carnival, Royal Caribbean and Disney cruise lines regularly sail from Galveston, which is the fourth largest port in the US Being compact and with so much to do, plus proximity to Houston, makes the city ideal for pre- or post-cruise stays.