Kings and queens have summered in the Royal Palace in Hua Hin (about 200 km south of Bangkok) since it was completed in the 1920s by King Rama VII. He named it Klai Kangwol, meaning “far from worries.”
Thailand’s first golf course, designed by a Scottish railway engineer, the Royal Hua Hin, opened in 1924. Players are rewarded with majestic views of the Gulf of Thailand. On the par-three 18th hole an exquisite temple looms in the background. Adjacent to the clubhouse stands the vintage wooden railway station where a scene from The Killing Fields was filmed.
The 18 holes follow moderately hilly terrain around impressive limestone cliffs rising beside fairways lined with old growth trees.
Monkeys have been known to dart from the undergrowth to steal golf balls, adding yet another challenge to your game.
While it is not as stylish as the newer golf courses, its old-world charm had me thinking about the Thai Royalty and British expatriates of yesteryear who played these same fairways almost a century ago. It’s also conveniently located close to Hua Hin town.
Black Mountain: Bring lots of Balls
Along with Thailand’s oldest golf course, Hua Hin also boosts one of the country’s newest and best, Black Mountain. It was created by Stig Notiov, a Swede who came to Thailand, barely escaped the tsunami and eventually fulfilled his lifelong dream of building a golf course that has garnered such prestigious awards as “Best Course in Thailand” and #59 on Golf Digest’s 2018 list of “World Top 100.”
The original 18 holes (East and South) were opened in 2007 and in 2016 an additional nine holes (West) was added. For swingers like me who suffer from what I call “hydrophobia” (fear of crossing water), I suggest you bring a lot of balls. The liquid challenge begins on number two, a par 5 with rocks and a creek in front of the green. Number three is a very difficult par-three with water on the left of an extremely undulating green. Number four is a devious downhill to an island green—definitely a risk/reward scenario. More water prevails on most fairways. Golfers refer to number 15 as the beast! It is long, tight, uphill with water hazards, lots of bunkers and a swale to the right of a small green.
Fortunately you can drown your sorrows at the posh clubhouse restaurant where, along with lots of Thai dishes, the menu also offers Champagne, fois gras and a burrata caprese salad.
Black Mountain offers stay and play packages. The resort has luxury villas with pools, laundry service, a mini-mall and free shuttle service to Hua Hin. In addition to the three nines, other activities include a water park, tennis, beach volleyball and yoga.
A Night in Hua Hin
Before the royals and tourists arrived, Hua Hin was a quiet fishing village. Fisherman’s Wharf is still abuzz at dawn when the catch comes in and it’s the place to go at night for a Piscean feast. In all my travels to Thailand, many of my favourite meals have been at no frills places like Baan Itsara. Plastic chairs and tablecloths, views of the ocean and pitchers of icy Singha beer set the stage for a parade of freshest seafood you can imagine — flash fried sea bass, yellow crab curry, giant prawns wrapped in basil leaves, lemongrass shrimp and spicy tom yum soup.
Unlike some spots in Thailand that are renowned for the nightlife, sex shows and bar scene, Hua Hin is more of a couples and family-friendly destination. On weekends, the Cicada Night Market has a huge food park, stalls where local crafts are sold and a stage for performers. As with everywhere in Thailand, you are never far from a cheep and cheerful place to have a foot massage (one hour for about $10). It makes the perfect “nightcap.”
Indulging at the Movenpick
We stayed at the Movenpick Asara Resort & Spa where they take their food and pampering seriously. Each afternoon there’s a free chocolate tasting for guests. The breakfast buffet offers everything from an omelette station to Thai curry to cold cuts. Croissants are buttery and flaky and the cappuccinos are perfectly made by a barista. You can even mix your own Bloody Marys.
At the Asara Spa, the signature treatment is the Himalayan pink salt hot stone and aromatherapy massage, which, after my round of golf at Black Mountain, soothed both my muscles and my ego.
