TEXAS TWIST: Discovering the many colours of San Antonio

By MICHAEL BAGINSKI/ Surprising San Antonio – which offers its own unique twist on what it is to be a Texas town – at last boasts direct service from Canada – courtesy of Air Canada, which now flies three times weekly (through Oct. 23) from Toronto to the state’s most colourful destination.

Despite ranking as the 7th biggest burg in the US (by population), and second in Texas (after Houston), San Antonio would qualify as an undiscovered gem to many Canadians, not least for its vibrant Mexican vibe and amazing River Walk.

And, of course, remember The Alamo – the city’s most famous draw and site of the historic Battle of The Alamo in 1836, where Davy Crockett and others lost their lives fighting in the Texas Revolution, which became a huge domino in U.S. history that is improbably shoehorned into tiny (but expanding) footprint in the heart of the city.

During a late April visit, which coincided with the city’s vibrant “Fiesta,” Visit San Antonio’s Dee Dee Poteete told Travel Industry Today that the city expects a 12% increase in Canadians this year (not least thanks to the new Air Canada flight) after a 14% decline last year (reflective of an overall drop-off in U.S. visits).

“Air Canada wouldn’t be sending its equipment if it didn’t make sense,” she observed, adding, “Texas means ‘friendly,’ and our whole state is so warm and friendly. We’ve always loved our Canadians, and we’re ready when Canadians are ready (to return).”

Prior to hosting some Canadian media for Fiesta, Visit San Antonio and city partners entertained travel advisors at events in Toronto and Montreal, with Poteete explaining, “when travel opens up (to the U.S.) we want to stay top of mind, but we don’t want to be too pushy.”

And when Canadians do start arriving on the Air Canada flight, or otherwise, they’ll find no shortage of new things to do in a city that already boasts over 4,000 restaurants (13 of them Michelin rated), four theme parks, the only UNESCO site in Texas (its mission row), and much more.

Indeed, San Antonio is considered one of the most unique cities in the U.S., rivalling, or perhaps surpassing, New Orleans, Boston, and San Francisco. Underpinned by a population that is 56% of Latin/Mexican heritage, it’s multi-cultural with a small-town feel and traditions that bely its size (pop. 2.8 million), and offering a true Texas twist.

Here’s a look at just some of what’s new and not to be missed:

The old Alamo boasts a new look

The Alamo: The south Texas city is known for The Alamo (it’s called “The Alamo City” after all), which is smack dab in the centre of town and a must-see stop for photos of the famous white church with a bronze statue of Davey Crockett in front. It’s the No. 1 tourist attraction in Texas, despite its modest size.

But now the historic downtown landmark and surrounding area is undergoing a massive $700-million expansion/renovation that includes significant plaza/promenade space in front, along with new attractions and a suitably sized visitor centre that is expected to be completed in 2027.

Still, all the talk about the site seems to settle on a dedicated museum that will showcase the extensive collection of Alamo artifacts collected for decades by Phil Collins (yes, the singer), which he has donated to the site. The venue is expected in 2028 (about 10% of the collection is currently displayed in existing facilities).

Spanish missions:  Beyond The Alamo, there are four other UNESCO Spanish missions around San Antonio, which collectively tell the story of the origins of the city and the state of Texas. In February, the new World Heritage Centre opened just a half mile from the Mission San José, giving visitors one central point to learn the story of Spanish colonial Texas.

River Walk: The city’s incredible 25-km long path hugs the banks of the San Antonio River, winding past hotels and through neighbourhoods, punctuated by unique art displays. The exception to the serenity is in the central vibrant bar/restaurant district on the river’s downtown loop. Barge tours along the river (and through a lock) display the depth and diversity of the city.

River Walk

The Pearl District: The revitalized historic brewery complex turned cultural hub blends shopping, acclaimed dining and community spaces along the River Walk. It’s known for its lively atmosphere, weekend farmer’s market, and includes the richly designed Hotel Emma with its great bar, Sterenworth. Try a mezcal tasting (and then dinner) at Mezcalaria in Pullman Market, or Mexican street food fare at La Gloria.

The King William Historic District: Akin to New Orlean’s Garden District, this quiet, leafy 25-block neighbourhood is San Antonio’s first residential historic district, known for its 19th-century mansions, German heritage, and vibrant cultural scene. King William Park, with its gazebo, palm trees, and walking paths, offers a scenic spot for relaxation, while the King William River Walk and Upper Mill Park add to the district’s charm, offering riverside strolls and recreational opportunities.

Botanical Gardens: A 15.4-hecatre urban oasis featuring themed gardens, native Texas plants, and a wide variety of global plant collections, the gardens offer walking trails, conservatories, and seasonal exhibits that highlight conservation, education, and the beauty of diverse plant life.

Theme Parks: San Antonio has four of them, including Six Flags, SeaWorld/Aquatica, Schlitterbahn water park, and Morgan’s Wonderland. Plus, the incredible Natural Bridge Caverns is the state’s largest network of caves (with requisite rides and ziplines).

Mia Tierra Café and Bakery: More than just a restaurant, a visit to the city’s most famous traditional Mexican restaurant – for breakfast, lunch, or dinner – is an event unto itself. Located in the Historic Market Square, the family-owned establishment celebrates its Hispanic heritage through not only its food, but music, décor, and staff – many of whom have worked there for decades. It’s big, busy, and guarantees a festive atmosphere, and is not to be missed.

The sounds of Mia Terra

Only in San Antonio, you say!

Fiesta: Considered one of the city’s “best-kept secrets” beyond its own borders, the just-concluded Fiesta will next take place April-15-25, 2027, with over 100 vibrant events celebrating the city’s Hispanic heritage (many of them raising funds for charity), and kicking off with the famous Battle of Flowers boat parade.

Day of the Dead Festival: The largest DoD celebration in the U.S. takes place Oct. 3-Nov. 2 this year, paying homage to departed loved ones with vibrant altars, captivating performances, and colourful processions as the city comes alive with intricate face paintings, ornate masks, and elaborate costumes, music, dance, and traditional Mexican cuisine.

San Antonio Stock Show and Rodeo: Dubbed “18 days of pure Texas,” and drawing around 1.5 million visitors a year, the 79th annual event will saddle up again next February. A “true rodeo,” featuring professional cowboys and cowgirls competing in events such as bull riding, barrel racing, and roping, the rodeo portion occurs primarily in the arena during evening shows, often followed by concerts from internationally recognized artists. Beyond the rodeo, the event includes a livestock show, carnival rides, food vendors, shopping, educational exhibits, and family-friendly activities on the festival grounds.

Holiday season: Seasonal events, markets and activities take place throughout the city, but most notably the River Walk is adorned with over 100,000 lights, creating a spectacular visual experience that attracts thousands of visitors each year. The Holiday River Parade features illuminated floats and is a highlight of the season, while the Alamo Plaza Christmas Tree lighting ceremony symbolizes the city’s rich heritage.

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