09 MAR 2010: Tokyo evokes many images – shopping along the designer filled Ginza strip, 24 hour traffic jams, dining on succulent sushi and buying inexpensive electronics. But most visitors are oblivious to the soul of Tokyo and its people, being caught up instead in the hustle and bustle of this sprawling city of almost 13 million residents.
My journey into discovering the warmth of Tokyo and its people begins in a most unlikely spot – the airport washroom at Narita airport. Heated toilet seats with warm water jets – now this is one comfort you need back in Canada! Many of the urinals throughout Tokyo have hooks beside them for your umbrella – now that’s technology - simple and refined.
Tokyo has traffic, but I found drivers overwhelmingly civil and vehicles actually moved compared to the streets of Toronto or New York. The downtown’s wide lanes and adherence to the rules of the road helps. The extensive public transportation network of trains and subways provides a viable alternative. Airport express trains take you from Narita (which is more than 60 kilometres away) in just under an hour for only about $22 Canadian – a real bargain. There are various train passes you can buy which are very economical. Despite any perceived language barriers it is very easy to get around Tokyo and inexpensively.
Affordable Tokyo
Tokyo is seen as one of the most expensive cities in the world to visit. It can be pricey for some things – like trying the notorious puffer fish at a restaurant but surprisingly it can be very affordable – even for budget conscious. There are literally hundreds of noodle shops and izakayas where you can get a full and satisfying meal. I had a pork dish and rice and beer for about 1,300 yen – around $14. As a bonus – you get to soak in the atmosphere of true Japanese culture and eating with locals. Tipping especially if the meal is under 3,000 yen is not expected – a further savings.
Tsukiji is the world’s largest fish market – it is an incredibly sensory adventure – but you need to be an early riser to capture the full experience as the buying and selling of fish to wholesalers, restaurants, hotels, etc. is done before 9 am. If you want to see commerce in action this beats any visit to the stock exchange. Tubs of octopus, yellowtail, tuna, salmon, cod and hundreds of other varieties of seafood are on display.
Tokyo is not all hustle and bustle. Take a break from shopping along the Ginza and head over to one of the top tourist attractions in Tokyo – the Imperial Palace, the residence of the Emperor. Stroll amongst the many gardens - it’s an ideal getaway in the heart of Tokyo. I felt I was in Washington DC, with the vast collection of cherry blossom trees in full bloom.
Unfortunately the Palace buildings and inner gardens are closed to the public except on January 2nd when the Emperor extends his New Year’s wishes to visitors and residents.
Tokyo at night is filled with people, lights and bars and restaurants doing a brisk business. The city’s pulse is addictive. I asked my guide Hiromi if there are any good neighbourhood, non-touristy, live music clubs. She knew just the spot. I wasn’t into hip-hop/techno or whatever they call it these days (okay my age is showing). Just give me an old rock classic bar any day.
The Gabi Gabi Rock Bar was cozy, the walls plastered with old posters and album covers of 60’s, 70’s bands and I was right at home and feeling the groove. Old Beatles, Rolling Stones, the Doors, and Japanese tunes were belted by the two person band. I was the only non-Japanese person there and loving it. From the bartender, patrons, band members, it was a truly memorable night where the warmth and hospitality of the Japanese really shined through.
Accommodation, Japanese Style
Tokyo has so many choices for accommodation but one I heartily recommend to experience Japanese culture is a stay at a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn.
For part of my visit to Tokyo I stayed at the Sukeroku No Yado Sadachiyo Ryokan. I must admit I was a bit worried since you won’t find any heavenly beds in a ryokan!
Ryokans today are a perfect example of traditional Japanese culture meets modern technology. The warm toilet seats that I have grown to love, the flat screen TV with remote blend with the tatami mat laid over the wooden floors make it easier getting up and down from the sitting position. The futon style bedding with sheets was not uncomfortable at all. The fusuma or traditional room divider created a suite style atmosphere. The next morning sitting crossed legged with another Japanese man I enjoyed a full Japanese breakfast – miso soup, seaweed, juice green tea, salmon, pickles and more – quite a difference from Tim Horton’s coffee and a bagel.
If hotels are more your style then you can do no better than to send your clients to the new Shangri-la Hotel in Tokyo which opened in March 2009. Located right next to Tokyo Station – a major train (including the airport express trains), subway and shopping hub and only a few minutes away from the tranquility and beauty of the Imperial Palace and gardens. Exceptional guest service filters out in every area of the hotel – from the restaurants, award winning Chi Spa, bell staff, front desk and housekeeping – its warm and unpretentious. The spacious rooms offer scenic views of Tokyo with all the modern conveniences – even providing a yoga suit. In some rooms the shower and bath is located in full view from the plush beds – no yoga suit required there!
Getting There
Air Canada will be offering 17 weekly non-stop flights from Toronto, Vancouver and Calgary this summer. On March 27, 2010 the airline begins three times weekly non-stop service from Calgary to Tokyo. Their Executive First service is exactly that – from the lie-flat sleeper seats, entertainment system and full roster of movies to the quality food service which features traditional Japanese dishes it can’t be beat.
I had many preconceptions about Tokyo before visitiong but came away with an appreciation of how clean, safe, modern the city was but not losing its centuries old traditions of hospitality and culture.
